Page 242 - Knack Knots You Need
P. 242
aLpine ButterFLY
Forms a fixed loop in the standing part of a rope.
This knot with the loveliest of names creates a fixed loop common to find three climbers attached to one rope,
at any point in a rope, a loop to which anything may be one climber at each end and one in the middle.
clipped or otherwise attached. It is often used in climb- Unlike the loop knot (see page 126), the alpine butter-
ing as a knot to which a climber may be attached to the fly can and safely does serve to bear a critical load. It stands
rope. It is especially popular in glacier travel, where it is up to tension from either direction without weakening.
Alpine Butterfly: Step 1 Alpine Butterfly: Step 2
Knots You need: CLimBing Knots
Wrap the rope around your left hand twice, as Move the turn closest to your fingertips to lie
shown in the photograph. between the other two turns.
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