Page 149 - Neglected Arabia (1911-1915)(Vol 1)

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consequence suffer many of the chronic diseases due to their uncleanly
habits. Only the ruling classes and a few merchants are orthodox
Moslems.
We landed from our boat, going through the surf on donkeys,
S and carried our letters of introduction to Shakir Effcndi, who bore the
lofty title of “Amir el Bahr” (Lord of the Sea). No trouble was
made in regard to our passports nor the character of our errand, and in
i ; a little room set apart as our lodging, none too large and yet clean
and airy, we received thrice daily the dole of rice and stew, supple­
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mented by our own lunch basket.
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The four days of our visit were crowded for Mrs. Zwemer by a
ministry of healing to the multitude of sick. Some of them were old
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if patients from the hospital, who had returned home, and others had
1 heard through them and came to our lodging or besought 11s to visit
their houses. Ahmad (the colporteur) and I sold Scriptures in the
bazaar, talked with the soldiers, answered questions on present day
politics, and exchanged opinions regarding the Yemen rebellion with
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i : Turkish officials. I was surprised to notice the demand for Scriptures,
and we sold out our stock very soon. The effect of the work at the
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hospital, and especially of Dr. Worrall’s visit, has greatly disarmed
former prejudice, and the people were to a degree friendly and un­
suspicious.
t • The West has invaded the East, even at Katif. Every night,
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and even in the early morning, our host tried to entertain us with a
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Victor phonograph grinding out cafe chante selections from Cairo,
while the machine, for lack of a table, rested on an old case of the
Standard Oil Company. The rifles carried by the soldiers were made
; at Springfield. Mass., and the one rusty cannon which defended the
•: entrance to the old castle was doubtless made in Germany.
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On April 27 the town had a holiday. The custom house and the
• 1 serai were decorated with palm branches and illuminated at night,
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for it was the Sultan’s accession day. As representing all the foreign
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governments of the world, I took part in the proceedings, and heard
the address given by the Kadhi from Stamboul, in which he asserted
again and again, as though it were a matter of doubt, that the present
! Sultan was caliph of all the Moslems, and that his kingdom would
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have no end until the day of judgment. The soldiers received one
cigarette apiece and a drink of lime sherbet in view of the occasion.
The whole performance reminded us of how Americans would try
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to observe Christmas on a desert island, and was a pathetic apology for
the new regime at the outskirts of the Ottoman Empire. It will be
a long time before Katif draws on the treasury for harbor improve­
ments or education.