Page 127 - Gertrude Bell (H.V.F.Winstone)
P. 127

MESOPOTAMIA                      hi
        Levant after escaping from the clutches of Sir William Ramsay,
        and who succeeded Sir Arthur Evans as Keeper of the Ashmolean
        at Oxford. He was six years Gertrude’s senior and wrote learned
        books about Arabia, its inhabitants and its explorers without ever
         going beyond its fringes, for he was no explorer. He was a
        prodigious scholar, a walking encyclopaedia in matters Greek,
        Arabic and archaeological, though he did not speak Arabic and
        was more attracted by writing than by digging in his devotion to
         the latter pursuit. He looked forward to spending ‘quite a
         respectable portion of eternity in talking to Herodotus’.
           Then there was Mark Sykes, the banc of Gertrude’s eastern
        paradise, a peripatetic gatherer of alarmingly biased information.
        He admired the Turks and approved their method of rule, divide
        et impera, and he spoke of the Arabs of his own day with a con­
         tempt that has seldom been equalled. He had travelled among
         these people from boyhood with his father, and he wrote of his
        visit to a tent of the Wuld Ali tribesmen: ‘Now at the moment I
         stepped into a tent... I was immediately impressed by the fact
         that there never could be, and never would be, any fellow-feeling
         between them and me.’ Of the Shammar badawin he wrote: ‘A
         rapacious, greedy, ill-mannered set of brutes ...These animals
         are, unluckily, pure badawin, and have not been tinctured with
         eidier Turkish or Kurdish blood, which always has a softening
         and civilising effect on these desert tramps.’ He was hardly more
         complimentary about the town Arabs. Sir Mark Sykes was to
        become the principal adviser to the British government on its
        war-time relations with the Arabs in just a few years. Meanwhile
         he wandered among these tribal people, writing passionately of
         the achievements of the Caliphates, ever praising the Turks and
         denigrating his hosts.
           There was Captain Hubert Young, bristling with military zeal
        and anxious to meet everyone who mattered, British, German and
         Arab; George Lloyd, cool and precise; Auberon (Aubrey)
         Herbert, bohemian and myopic, who made the journey across
         Sinai in 1907, a feat at that time considered remarkable; and at
         Carchemish in the north-east corner of Syria, T. E. Lawrence,
         ‘Ned’ or ‘the little fellow’ as diey called him, a bright classical
         scholar and aspiring Arabist, working for Hogarth alongside
        Leonard Woolley amid the ruins, and keeping his eye on the
         Germans who were also digging there, on behalf of Military
        Intelligence.
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