Page 184 - The Tigris Expedition
P. 184

To Dilmun, the Land of Noah

       vestiges of an incredibly skilled activity, but no sign of buildings:
       large portions of the island had literally been carried away, not only
       from the quarries, but from the coast. So much rock had been
       removed that it far surpassed the sum total of quarried blocks in the
       structures so far excavated on Bahrain. It would therefore be
       tempting to prophesy that more buildings are yet to be discovered
       beneath the Dilmun sand. There was another reason for this
       suspicion: no  columns had as yet been discovered in the Dilmun
       palaces or temples, whereas colonnades of round stone pillars  were
       common in antiquity from Egypt to Mesopotamia. Among the
       niches in the Jidda quarries were some circular cavities, marks of the
       removal of cylindrical blocks the size a man could barely encircle
       with his arms. Stones of this shape do not reappear in the known
       buildings on Bahrain. They can hardly have been used for anything
       but segments for a column.
         Most of the prisoners we saw went to and fro at a distance as if
       they did not notice us. A few came close and looked at us with big
       eyes and an expression as if they were pleased to have visitors on the
       island. Some even ventured a broad smile. The major explained that
       many of them were dangerous fanatics against the government.
       Perhaps these were not among the men who walked around loose.
       As we sat down among the niches to have our picnic lunch a
       friendly prisoner came up to us with a jug of milky tea. The only
       domesticated animal we saw was a white mule. But an incredible
       number of cats lurked everywhere, and the major estimated there
       were about four hundred of them running wild among the rocks.
       And never had I seen so many cormorants. Packed together into
       regular cloud formations they could blacken the sun as they sailed
       past and out over the sea.
          The southern part ofjidda was so remarkably different from all
       the rest that I began to wonder whether it was due to the work of
       ancient man. The limestone rocks here suddenly fell away to
       slightly above beach level, and were no longer naked but covered
       by fertile black soil. Date palms and a few ornamental trees grew
       here, and between their trunks were truly luxuriant vegetable
       gardens. They were so unusually tidy and well kept that it could
       almost be suspected that the rulers of Bahrain hated gardeners and
       had sent all the best to this penitentiary. The whole area surrounded
        a basin with a large natural well from which ice cold, crystal clear
        water welled up from somewhere below the bottom of the  sea in
        such a quantity that we had to jump aside when the proud major
        somehow forced it into a garden hose.
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