Page 219 - The Tigris Expedition
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                                          The Tigris Expedition
                    could towards Ras al Shaikh, without any charts. Captain Said had
                    explained that he steered ‘by his heart*. They had first reached the
                     wild mountain coast more or less like us, and followed it until they
                     found a narrow cleft in the rock wall. Here they had steered in and
       ;
                     entered a channel where it blew so hard between the walls that
                     Tigris would have been unmanageable. But they had turned right
                     into an inner cove where Rashad felt he had entered something out
                     of a fairy-tale. Where the rock walls ended there was a sort of scoop
                     in the mountains and here was an almost prehistoric village, still
                     inhabited, stepped in terraces between the cliffs. Even in this
      i
                     sheltered place the wind penetrated and blew in wild gusts as if from
                     bellows; but they were able to anchor beside some small fishing
                     boats and were totally invisible when we passed Ras al Shaikh
                     looking for lights. They had repaired the rudder and what else they
                     could with wire and wood, but all that needed welding would have
                     to be done in Muscat. They had come out this morning at six
                     o’clock to look for us, and, failing to see us they had steered north
                      and left the gulf by turning in a tighter curve than that of the main
                      shipping lane. Finally they saw us and everybody had been amazed
                      at the speed we had made. The food on board had been fish, rice and
                      curry, and the company had been good, except that they were all
                      close to exhaustion from pumping and repairing.
                        For Rashad, to be back on the sturdy Tigris was like returning
                      from a floating bathtub to a stabilised luxury liner, and never had
                      we  seen such extravagance at sea as what Yuri produced from his
                      personal case when the sun set behind the hills of Oman: Russian
                       champagne and caviar, astronaut bread and turkey-a-la-Space, with
                       moon-cheese and a whole variety of Sputnik tubes from which we
                       squeezed our mouths full of pastes, creams, jams, deserts and juices
                       — all the pocket-size dishes that make up the menu of Yuris
                       countrymen when travelling away from Planet Earth. Dr Yuri
                       Alexandrovitch Senkevitch was a serious space scientist, occupied
                       with living conditions in capsules when he was not floating about at
                       water-level with us on prehistoric raft-ships. Whether ma-gur or
                       spacecraft, none of us would deny that night that there was still a lot
                       of fun to be had on Planet Earth. We enjoyed the Sumerian view of a
                       thin sliver of moon as we squeezed astronaut mouthfuls between
                       our jaws and celebrated the fact that  we  really had three very special
                       reasons to make the most of the  evening:
                         Rashad was back with us. We were safe outside the gulf. It was
                       the last day of the year!


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