Page 371 - The Tigris Expedition

From Asia to Africa; from Meluhha to Punt
uphill, and imagine seeing a truck beside them. But we have now
also noted a considerable assemblage of huge modern concrete
buildings mixed with some old Arab houses. Three of them lie
side by side at the waterfront like apartment houses without
windows, leaving the impression of ultra-modern plants con-
trasting the apparent wilderness around. Fabulous mountains.
Never have we seen a more beautiful island. Norman and I agree
that it resembles Tahiti, where we had first met, with the
sky-piercing pinnacles of the Diademe rising in the interior.
Carlo got the idea of trying to contact Socotra or South Yemen
directly with our own radio. We have tried, but no answer. The
large buildings are getting closer, some are at the water’s edge.
No life. No movement. No wind. A desperate situation. Risk of
drifting on the rocks is great.

Night came as we were right up under the land. To our great
surprise we suddenly saw sharp electric lights turned on in great
numbers in the modern blocks, and a few scattered lights showed
up elsewhere too. I closed the notes with the following words: ‘We
are indeed too close to feel comfortable. I have given orders to light
extra kerosene lamps and turn all towards land so they know where
we are and can interfere if we drift towards the perilous coast.’
On 16 March the spectacular island was still right there in all its
impressive beauty. We were again immediately off the bay with the
capital town of Hadibu, where the Sultan at least formerly resided.
We were well inside the three-mile limit, with two blowing whales
right beside us. I told everybody to put away their cameras. If
somebody came out we would explain our problems. If not, we
were close enough to go in with our dinghy and apologise.
At breakfast time a small engine-driven dhow turned up on the
opposite horizon, coming from the direction of South Yemen and
heading for the island. It adjusted course to come straight for us. A
few hundred yards away the engine was turned off, and the
- four-man black crew stood gazing at Tigris. Their open boat was
loaded to the brim with huge hammerhead sharks. I sent Rashad
over with HP to get some information about this mysterious island.
As they came back Rashad explained that the four black fishermen
had been very friendly and spoke an Arab dialect. They had
strongly recommended us to sail into this bay which had the only
good landing beach. No problems on this island. People here were
very friendly, the fishermen assured, and they had added that there
were also ‘Russians and Chinese’ ashore. This unlikely combination
305