Page 80 - The Tigris Expedition
P. 80

Problems Begin
          a V'T a"' lx t"       discussion about this ceremony The Marsh
         «d rhem’,'ac° T                 she with sir. bcautS,,leepTh"
         1 1 A        \ Cn^d and 1 was supposed to hand-print their
         blood on the bow of the nCw vessel. This I refused to do. Kon-Tiki
         had been baptised in South American coconut milk, Ra I and II in
         mi k from Berber goats. I could not even propose the use ofbuffalo
         milk which would seem an insult to the Marsh Arabs. They insisted
         on  the local custom of animal sacrifice as adhered to since the days
         of Abraham. They always hand-printed blood on any new build-
         ing, whether house or boat. The marshmen blankly refused to let
         the ship enter the river unless the proper sacrifices had been
         performed, and Gatae insisted they would do it themselves if I
         would not. They were so dead set on this rite that even our educated
         Baghdad friend Rashad refused to come along on the voyage unless
         the customary ceremony was performed.
            We found a compromise. The marshmen should be allowed to
         carry out their own rite beforehand, but the naming ceremony
         should be the way 1 wanted it.
            November 11 was the day that had been set for the launching. In
         the late morning I found Gatae by the ship in his spotless white
         kaftan with a blood-stained right palm. He was still stamping red
         hand-marks on the golden bow from the last sheep sacrificed, while
         his men sat happily squatting on the ground devouring roast lamb
         with no effort to conceal that this was to them the most important
         part of the ceremony.
            By midday the dignitaries had arrived from Baghdad, bringing a
         white silk ribbon and scissors to be used by the Director-General of
         the Ministry in a proper bridge-opening ceremony in front ot t e
         bow. Then it was our turn; Gatae’s beautiful little grand-daughter
         was to name   the vessel. Gatae stepped up from the river s edge
         leading this tiny black-haired lady in colourful cost“me, \C £
         hand. Little Sekneh struggled to carry a traditional MarshArab
          bottle-gourd dripping full of river water that was to give^thc shipus
         name. With sparkling eyes she splashed it success u )        lcj
         bow, forgot all her lessons, and only those who stood c
         hear her mumble ‘Di'dgle’, the local name fb.f &£*£&
         father never let go her hand as he took over an
                                                               f God and
            ‘This ship is to enter the water with the, P ^        ’
         the blessing of the Prophet, and will be callc       • rumble
            No sooner had these words been                        as if in
         of thunder was heard in the south. All heads were

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