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PILGRIM PATHS IRELAND  TRAVEL

the Navigator (d. 577 or 583). The medieval Christian TURAS, GLEANN CHOLM CILLE VALLEY, CO. DONEGAL
pilgrimage was probably adapted by the Church from a pagan Route: within Gleann Cholm Cille Valley
celebration. The route follows the Saints’ Road from Ventry Distance: 5.4 kilometres (3.4 miles) all year round. Alternative
Strand to the grotto at the foot of Brandon Mountain and route 7.2 kilometres (4.5 miles)
winds its way among the fuchsia-hedged fields between the Dates: 7 June – 31 August (Sundays only)
sea and the mountain. Gleann Cholm Cille is a broad and secluded glen in western
The area is rich in bird and plant life, and heritage sites along Donegal with one of the finest collections of pillar stones
the route include the famous Gallarus Oratory, a corbelled anywhere in Ireland. These are spread over a wide area of the
structure that may have been built to shelter passing valley floor and are located at the fourteen stations on the
pilgrims. The dry stone oratory, described by Nobel Laureate route. Although some of the stations can be visited all year
Seamus Heaney as ‘a core of old dark walled up with stone a round, the practice of pilgrimage is based on the willingness
yard thick’, has remained watertight since its construction at of local landowners to allow pilgrims to enter their lands on
some time between the seventh and twelfth centuries. A little Sundays between 7th June and 31st August each year. The
further along the route, there is an Ogham stone beside the pilgrimage itself takes place on 9th July, the feast day of St.
Romanesque church at Kilmalkedar. The church is dedicated Colm Cille. Participation on the day is an uplifting
to the local St Maolcéadair and is surrounded by fascinating experience, bringing one back into the atmosphere of the old
historical remnants, including a twelfth-century sundial. Irish pilgrimage as practised a thousand years ago.
A nearby holy well is dedicated to St Brendan, as is a Not only are the prayers recited in the beautiful Donegal Irish,
collapsed oratory of the Gallarus type. Lying against a wall but each station has its own dignified and time-honoured
on the far side of the main road is a bullaun, a stone with ritual. For example, the pilgrim must lie down on St. Colm
man-made cavities, which was probably designed for use in Cille’s bed and turn over three times in a recumbent position
blessings and healings. Although the traditional pilgrimage before taking some earth from under the bed, while still
extended to the summit of Brandon Mountain, the route now lying down, as a protection against fire and a cure for other
ends at Ballybrack. The mountain is hazardous, has steep cliffs, ailments. The pilgrimage traditionally starts at the
and is prone to sudden disorientating mists. Walkers proceed nineteenth-century St. Culumba’s Church in Gleann Cholm
to the summit entirely at their own risk. Cille. In due course, the route proceeds to Beefan, the most
SLÍ CAOIMHÍN - ST. KEVIN’S WAY westerly point on the route.
Route: From Hollywood to Glendalough, Co. Wicklow From Beefan, the pilgrim begins the return journey down
Distance: 30 kilometres (18 miles) Mullach na Cainte,‘the slope of conversation’, traditionally the
Recommended Ordnance Survey Map: only place along the route where pilgrims are allowed to talk.
1:50,000 Discovery Series, Sheet 56 The route then leads through a marsh - where exposed
St Kevin’s Way follows in the footsteps of St Kevin through pavement stones may have formed part of the ancient
the hills of Wicklow to the haunting and mysterious valley pilgrimage road - and returns to the starting point via
of Glendalough where he spent the rest of his life in solitary Drumroe.
prayer and contemplation. After Kevin’s death in AD 618, what
had been a humble hermit’s retreat developed into an Further information about the route is available from Oideas
impressive monastic city which was to continue as a centre of Gael. Visit www.oideas-gael.com or call (073) 97 30248.
piety and learning for many years to come. Medieval pilgrims
came from far and wide to visit Kevin’s tomb, and the Active Retirement Ireland 157
alternative starting points to the walk reflect the different
directions from which they are likely to have travelled.
The main route starts in Hollywood, while the alternative
route comes from Valleymount. The paths meet and join at
Ballinagee Bridge. The walker then climbs towards the
spectacular Wicklow Gap, a classic example of a ‘wind gap’
and the highest point on the route. The flagstones of the old
pilgrimage road are still visible in sections. The route then
follows the descent of the Glendasan River into the Valley of
Glendalough. Before proceeding to the monastic buildings,
a visit to the fine interpretative centre beside Glendalough
carpark will give an overview of the history of the area.
Little remains of the early monastery that grew up around St
Kevin’s tomb, and most of the monastic buildings date from
the eleventh and twelfth centuries, the heyday of the
European pilgrimage. The cluster includes one of the country’s
best preserved examples of a round tower.

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