Page 110 - Southern Oregon Magazine Summer 2019
P. 110

The Morning Glory Cookbook
      chow | local habit
                       is Finally Here!
                                                                  Now compare that to your glass washing machine that costs $125 per
                                                                  month to operate—$1500 per year. It doesn’t mind working 24 hours
                                                                  a day, never asks for time off, doesn’t have family emergencies, never
                                                                  injures itself, doesn’t require FICA withholding, and never gets sick.
                                                                  The machine wins this job. That is the calculus that every business
                                                                  owner is doing.

                                                                  To make it as plain as I can, once a machine can do something effec-
                                                                  tively that has become price-prohibitive for a human to do, that human
                                                                  is out of work. And that job is not coming back.

                                                                  Here’s a possible scenario about how this happens, and how we become
                                                                  okay with it. As front of the house employees become more expensive
                                                                  to pay, restaurants skimp on service to make sure they stay in busi-
                                                                  ness. This makes service suffer. There are now long waits for food and
      Get your signed copy at Morning Glory at 1149 Siskiyou Blvd  Ashland, Oregon  drinks, or even to have someone arrive at your table. When you need
             Thank you, Readers, for choosing Morning Glory!      something, that server is so weeded (as we say in the industry) that
                                                                  they either don’t see you, or refuse to look at you because they know
            Also available at:                                    just as well as you do that the service is poor, and they don’t want the
            Barnes and Noble                                      confrontation.
           Bloomsbury Books
           Paddington Station                                     In this scenario, and in this day and age, it makes perfect sense to think
              Tudor Guild                                         that no service at all would be better service. In this future restaurant,
            Jacksonville Inn                                      you don’t have to rely on a service staff stretched thin by rising costs.
            R Rebel Heart Books                                   You really will believe that this is better service, because you will be in
                                                                  charge of your experience, and for the staff that remains it’s pretty hard
                                                                  to mess up carrying a plate.

                                                                  I think the slide is that simple. And I also believe that we will move that
                                                                  way with very little difficulty aside from the few years of poor service
                                                                  before the solutions present themselves.

                                                                  But let’s get back into that crystal ball for a moment. Does this mean
                                                                  the end to the dining experience as we presently know it? In some
                                                                  cases yes, but in some cases no. There will still be places that offer
                                                                  the old-fashioned service, but they will be special occasion restaurants,
                                                                  and they will be more expensive because they will have more staff to
                                                                  pay. You’ll still be able to get “table service” at some places, but it will
                                                                  become something to advertise and capitalize on, like “hand-crafted,”
                                                                  or “artisan.”

          Cultivate community with good food                      It’s very possible that the future of eating in America really only exists
                                                                  in four categories: 1) fast food drive throughs, 2) major chains that
                                                                  look like our hypothetical future restaurant, 3) special occasion places
                                                                  holding on to the old ways - these will most likely be most viable when
                                                                  paired with additional revenue streams like hotels or catering busi-
                                                                  nesses, and 4) hybrid combinations of 2 and 3. For instance, the places
                                                                  where you order at a counter, and then take a seat and either grab your
                                    N The Café                    own food or wait for it to be brought to you.
                                    —
                                    A
                                    D                             Of course, all of this is just conjecture. Maybe restaurants will continue
                                    —                             to look the same, far into the future. But if I had to wager on it, I would
                                                                  put my money on more automation and fewer people. There may well
                                                                  come a day when discussion of table service is as quaint as rotary tel-
        Open Daily 7 to 9 • 945 S Riverside Ave                   ephones, ditto copiers, and rolling up the windows in your car.
             (541)779-2667 • medfordfood.coop


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