Page 72 - Chiense TExtiles, MET MUSEUM Pub 1934

THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
These insignia were either embroidered or woven, and
the cap showed a button of the proper color and material.
Of the ranks of officials, the first is the highest. Fur-
thermore, each of the nine ranks is divided into two
classes, a principal and a subordinate; the only distinc-
tions we can find in the insignia of this subdivision of
rank are that the character of longevity is engraved on
the button of the subordinate class, and that, according
to some authorities, the bird or animal hown on the in-
signia of this class is always flying or running, while in
the case of the principal grade, it is at rest. We have not
been able to find conclusive proof, however, that these
are official discriminations, but we offer them as possi-
bilities.
, There are in the Paul Bequest one hundred and sev-
enty-five examples of these insignia which were selected
for variety of workmanship and design. Not all of the
birds and animals on these mandarin squares are faith-
fully portrayed, unfortunately, and we may after further
study have to revise some of the present classifications.
We think, however, that we have all nine of the civil
ranks- the ninth, or paradise flycatcher, being the only
one about which we are really in doubt. It is pertinent
to note that while there are literally dozens of squares
for each civil group represented (with the exception of
the eighth, of which we have only a few examples),
there are in the military group only five squares in all-
one each of the first and seventh ranks and three of the
second. We conclude therefore that the military officials
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