Page 96 - Chiense TExtiles, MET MUSEUM Pub 1934
P. 96

THE  METROPOLITAN  MUSEUM  OF  ART
                    (see  fig.  38).  In some  instances  the  robes  are  studded
                   with buttons of eighteenth-century glass.  An especial! y
                   charming example is  a female  warrior's robe  (fig.  33)
                   where the glass buttons are interspersed amongst crosses
                   of gold applique. One warrior robe is made of imported
                   vel vet  with  panels  of imported  brocade  (figs.  36,  37)
                   but is  embroidered and appliqued  with the  usual exag-
                   gerated  warrior motives  of the  Chinese  theater, result-
                   ing in a magnificent incongruity.
                     In contrast to  the eighteenth-century theatrical robes
                   are  three  of nineteenth-century  type  which  we  believe
                   to  be  from  the imperial  theater- a  three-piece  costume
                   representing a woman's  wedding garments, an emper-
                  _or's  robe  of gigantic  proportions  in  green  satin  with
                   gold  dragons,  17   and  a court dancer's  robe  embellished
                   with innumerable streamers and cloud collars.



                                    PRIEST ROBES

                   The priest robes are of several varieties. The straight rec-
                   tangular type was traditionally used by Buddhist priests,
                   and also a variant of it in which one end is gored. This
                   robe as  it is  worn is  suggestive of the Roman toga  (see
                   fig.  31). It is  draped  under the right arm and over  the
                  left shoulder, where it falls  in a vertical line and is held
                  in place by  a cord and a jade ring fastened  in front  on
                  the  left  side.  The Lamaist  Buddhist robe  is  practically
                  square, with one side cut to the middle and shaped into
                  17  .On loan from  Dr. Hammond  1   )
                                           86
   91   92   93   94   95   96   97   98   99   100   101