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57.


                    strangest  vessels,  indigenous  to  southern  China,  were  the  junks.
                    Employed  primarily  in  transporting  cargo,  junks  were  also  used  as


                    warships  in  China.         Some  were  large  enough  to  hold  five  hundred

                    men.     The  junk  had  one  principal  mast,  on  which  flew  a  sail  of

                    bamboo  matting.  Two  smaller  masts  displayed  brightly  colored

                    flags.      Most  noticeable  to  foreigners  were  eyes  painted  on

                    either  side  of  the  bow.          Similar  to  the  figurehead  on  Western

                    ships,  the  eyes  were  for  good  fortune.              Many  junks  also  boasted

                    ornate  carvings  and  paintings  of  dragons,  serpents  and  other

                       .
                    anima  l  s.  19
                                Thus  the  Canton  or  Pearl  River  was  a  marvelous  wonder

                    to  foreigners.        There  was  nothing  like  it  in  the  experience

                    of  Westerners  arriving  at  Canton  for  the  first  time.                   Most  of

                    them  could  not  fathom  the  sheer  multitudes  of  Chinese.                    Every­

                    where  as  far  as  a  person  could  see  in  any  direction  on  the

                    river  were  dense  crowds  of  people,  "a  city  afloat,"  with  its

                    "incessant  movement,                  subdued  noises,              .  life  and

                    gaiety."  For  most  the  river  at  Canton  provided  a  constant

                    source  of  interest  and·amusement  in  an  otherwise  tedious
                                                                     "
                    existence.       One  American  noted:                 .  it  is  long  after
                    arriving  in  China,  that  a  foreign  eye  learns  to  observe  unmol­

                                                                                                                  11 20
                    ested  the  gay  and  active  scene  perpetually  raising  in  the  river.


                                1
                                 9  Erasmus  Doolittle,  "Recollections  of  China,"  in
                    iSilas  Holbrooy,  Sketches,  by  a  Traveller  (Boston,  1830 ),
                    p. 46.

                                20
                                  Hunter,  'Fan  Kwae       1   at  Canton,  p.  14.      W.W.  Wood,
                    Sketches  of  China:         with  Illustrations  from  Original  Drawings
                    (Philadelphia,  1830 ),  pp.  54-56.
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