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57.
strangest vessels, indigenous to southern China, were the junks.
Employed primarily in transporting cargo, junks were also used as
warships in China. Some were large enough to hold five hundred
men. The junk had one principal mast, on which flew a sail of
bamboo matting. Two smaller masts displayed brightly colored
flags. Most noticeable to foreigners were eyes painted on
either side of the bow. Similar to the figurehead on Western
ships, the eyes were for good fortune. Many junks also boasted
ornate carvings and paintings of dragons, serpents and other
.
anima l s. 19
Thus the Canton or Pearl River was a marvelous wonder
to foreigners. There was nothing like it in the experience
of Westerners arriving at Canton for the first time. Most of
them could not fathom the sheer multitudes of Chinese. Every
where as far as a person could see in any direction on the
river were dense crowds of people, "a city afloat," with its
"incessant movement, subdued noises, . life and
gaiety." For most the river at Canton provided a constant
source of interest and·amusement in an otherwise tedious
"
existence. One American noted: . it is long after
arriving in China, that a foreign eye learns to observe unmol
11 20
ested the gay and active scene perpetually raising in the river.
1
9 Erasmus Doolittle, "Recollections of China," in
iSilas Holbrooy, Sketches, by a Traveller (Boston, 1830 ),
p. 46.
20
Hunter, 'Fan Kwae 1 at Canton, p. 14. W.W. Wood,
Sketches of China: with Illustrations from Original Drawings
(Philadelphia, 1830 ), pp. 54-56.