Page 347 - JAPAN THE SHAPING OFDAIMYO CULTURE 1185-1868
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the Kanbun style the front and back of the On the back of this kosode, large over- A close look at the embroidered ma-
garment are each a single field for a mark- lapping maple leaves form the arc across ple leaves reveals that they are solidly
edly asymmetrical design depicted quite the shoulders to the right hem, with the paved with cherry blossoms—a kind of sur-
large, even in closeup. The primary design red figured satin (rinzu) background ex- real juxtaposition much favored in kosode
field was the back, on which the design posed on the left. The maple leaves, out- designs of the early Edo period. The com-
formed a dramatic arc across the shoulders lined with gold, are of two types. Some are bination of cherry blossoms and maple
and down the right side, leaving the left depicted in kanoko shibori, literally, "fawn- leaves evokes for the Japanese their two fa-
side undecorated. Kosode decorated in this spot" shibori, referring to the allover dap- vorite seasons, spring and fall.
striking style were favored by the then- pled pattern of small white spots, each Other similar Kanbun-style decora-
economically powerful merchant sector of centered on a dot of the background color. tive schemes can be seen in the Shinsen
society, but were also widely popular with These diagonal rows of tiny white circles onhiinagdta, a kosode design book pub-
other classes. were produced by pinching off successive lished in 1666, the sixth year of the Kan-
An order book of the Kariganeya ko- bits of fabric along the bias and binding bun era. KS
sode design house illustrates Kanbun styles each bit tightly with waterproof thread or
ordered by Tôfukumon'in (1607-1678), fiber, except at the tip, before immersion
daughter of the second Tokugawa shogun, in the dye bath. Gold embroidery picks
Hidetada, and consort of Emperor Go- out the veins and forms tiny globes of dew
Mizunoo. on the shibori leaves. The remaining
leaves are rendered in gold and white em-
broidery against brush-applied black dye
(hikizome).
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