Page 159 - Sothebys Speelman Gems of Chinese Art

Superbly carved with two dragons, this rare bead is likely to A painting of Empress Dowager Xiao Zhuangwen (1613-1688),
have been used as a separator in a Buddhist rosary necklace consort of Hong Taiji, mother of the Shunzhi Emperor and
for a member of the Qing imperial family. Coral was treasured grandmother of the Kangxi Emperor (r. 1662-1722), wearing
for its even lustre and vivid auspicious colour, and its specific non-official clothing and holding a rosary with four large coral
use was included in the earliest basic rules relating to the dividers, in the Palace Museum, Beijing, was included in the
Imperial wardrobe by the second ruler of the Qing dynasty, exhibition Kangxi. Empereur de Chine, Musée national du
Huang Taiji, father of the Shunzhi Emperor (r. 1643-1661) Château de Versailles, Versailles, 2004, cat. no. 50. A specific
in 1636. His rules were revised and augmented by the function of coral beads is discussed by Gary Dickinson and
Qianlong Emperor in 1759, and revised in 1767, and recorded Linda Wrigglesworth in Imperial Wardrobe, Berkeley, 2000, p.
in the Huangchao liqi tushi [llustrated Regulations for the 158, where the authors note that four larger coral beads were
Ceremonial Paraphernalia of the Qing Dynasty], an eighteen used as separators in the emperor’s principal chaozhu (court
juan monumental manuscript that includes thousands necklace); see an example sold in these rooms, 8th April 2010,
of illustrations and lengthy text, scrupulously recording lot 1813. One of the babao (Eight Treasures), its vermilion
the ‘proper’ paraphernalia for the emperor and his court. colour is associated with the yang essence of the sun so was
Costume and jewellery are well represented in this manuscript worn on special occasions such as the ritual sacrifice at the
for both men and women, starting with the emperor down Temple of the Sun.
through all the ranks of the imperial clan and the whole of the
court and civil service.

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