Page 35 - Christie's Asian Art Auctions PARIS December 2019
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           TRES RARE ROBE IMPERIALE SEMI-FORMELLE EN SOIE            The present robe was made an empress or a high-ranking court
           BRODEE A FOND JAUNE, LONGPAO                              woman. The Huangchao  Liqi  Tushi,  ‘Illustrated  Precedents  for
           CHINE, DYNASTIE QING, EPOQUE JIAQING (1796-1820)          the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court’, enforced in 1766,
           La  robe  est  délicatement  brodée  de  trois  médaillons  sur  chaque  authorized three styles of semi-formal attire for empresses and high-
           face et deux aux épaules abritant des dragons à cinq grifes parmi   ranking court women, of which the present robe is the third style.
           les nuages stylisés. Les dragons au centre et sur les épaules sont
           représentés de face tandis que les dragons en partie basse sont  The frst style is similar to the emperor’s longpao and is decorated
           de profl regardant vers le haut. Le col et les manches soulignés  with  dragons  amidst  clouds,  rather  than  within  roundels,  like  on
           de  bordures  lishui  brodées de dragons à la poursuite de la perle  the present robe. The second style is decorated with eight exposed
           enfammée sur fond noir. L'intérieur de la robe est bordé de fourrure et   dragon roundels and a ninth roundel hidden beneath the front overlap,
           la doublure est en soie de couleur bleu pâle.             all above a lishui border at the hem. The third and most rare style, like
           Hauteur: 142 cm. (55æ in.), largeur: 181 cm. (71º in.)    the present robe, was decorated with roundels only.
                                                                     A similar example of a semi-formal robe of the third style, dated to
           €15,000-20,000                 US$17,000-22,000
                                             £13,000-17,000          the Qianlong period (1736-1795) decorated with the addition of shou
                                                                     characters within the dragon roundels, is in the University of Alberta
                                                                     Museums, Mactaggart Art Collection, and is illustrated by J. Vollmer
           PROVENANCE:
           French private collection, acquired in the 19th century, thence by   and J. Simcox in Emblems of Empire: Selections from the MacTaggart
           descent in the family.                                    Art  Collection, Alberta, 2009, pp. 38-39. Vollmer and Simcox note
                                                                     that this robe would have been part of a set which would have
           VERY RARE IMPERIAL EMBROIDERED YELLOW SILK SEMI-
                                                                     included a matching surcoat. The surcoat would have had identical
           FORMAL `DRAGON’ ROBE, LONGPAO
           CHINA, QING DYNASTY, JIAQING PERIOD (1796-1820)           decoration to the robe, but embroidered on a blue, rather than yellow,
                                                                     ground.
           清嘉慶 黃地綉龍紋龍袍
           來源:法國私人珍藏,于19世紀入藏,現家族傳承                                   A portrait of the Xiaoxian empress wearing a similar yellow semi-
                                                                     formal robe of the third style can be found in Portraits of the Qianlong
                                                                     Emperor and  His Twelve  Consorts,  dated to 1736,  by  Giuseppe
                                                                     Castiglione (1688-1766) and others, in the collection of The Cleveland
                                                                     Museum of Art, 1969.31 (fg. 1). The painting shows the empress
                                                                     wearing a robe nearly identical to the present robe. The robe worn by
                                                                     the Xiaoxian empress has similar lavender clouds to the present robe.

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