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80 (left) and 81 (center). Gold turban ornaments, mid-sixteenth century 82 (right). Jeweled gold turban ornament, second half sixteenth century
(Istanbul, Turk ve islam Eserleri Müzesi, 419 and 421) (Istanbul, Turk ve Islam Eserleri Müzesi, 416)
There are no contemporary representations of Hürrem Sul- ral head, circular band above the tubular shaft, and four
tán, and the paintings said to portray her all date from later rings; two of the rings have gold chains with hooks, while
periods. Several paintings of court ladies were made in the the others may have been used to attach additional orna-
sixteenth century by European visitors; these were based on ments. The socket, head, and band above the shaft are deco-
hearsay, however, since men could not have been permitted rated with rumis placed on a nielloed ground. A rumi scroll
into the women's quarters. Some of these represent ladies decorates the socket, encircled by a granulated frieze and a
wearing conical caps draped with scarves, decorated with molded braid; symmetrical elements radiating from a central
headbands and gold cylindrical ornaments containing motif embellish the flat planes of the head; the design on the
59
plumes. Hurrem's headdress must have been similar but socket is repeated on the band.
more elaborate. Also found in her mausoleum and transferred A second sorguç belonging to Selim II (82) has a slightly
to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts is a spray of gold different shape and is encrusted with rubies and turquoises. It
flowers that may have been a hair ornament. shows a high flaring socket, a ribbed head, and a conical sec-
Housed in that museum are several other gold turban orna- tion above the shaft, which is flat and made of silver. Hooked
ments, which were found in the Mausoleum of Selim II. One chains are attached to rings along the bottom of the head.
of them (81) is an earlier and simpler piece, possibly worn by The socket and head are embellished with cabochon-cut
Selim when he was a crown prince. It has a socket, polyhed- gems, mounted into high collars joined by branches to the
Detail, 79 145