Page 233 - The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent

pi. XXI; Mackie 1980, pi. 59; Istanbul 1983, E. 103; and Frankfurt 1985, the other parts. The Victoria and Albert piece is published in London 1950,
vol. 2, no. 5/1. The identification of this kaftan with §ehzade Mustafa was no. 10; and Rogers 1983b, fig. 4. A similar pattern with only large and small
established by Filiz Çagman, who also suggested that the black-ground triple balls, the former filled with crosshatching, cloud bands, and rumis, was
example discussed here must have been for §ehzade Bayczid, not Sultan made into a chasuble; see Warsaw 1983, pi. IX.
Bayezid II. See Istanbul 1983, E. 103. 70. See, for instance, the fragment illustrated in London 1950, no. 7; and
50. Atil 1980, ill. 87; and Istanbul 1983, E. 107. the kemha said to come from the Mausoleum of Selim II, published in Oz
51. Oz 1950, pi. X; and Istanbul 1983, E. 136. 1950, pi. XXX.
52. The Textile Museum piece is published in Denny 1972, fig. 17; and 71. A piece from the same fabric is in the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston,
Mackie 1973, no. 11. The Museum of Fine Arts also owns a seraser fragment where there are two other purple-ground kemhas.
woven with red and blue silk in addition to a seraser cream and mustard- 72. Lyons 1976, no. 67. This example with the same width is
yellow ceremonial kaftan; the designs of both contain large palmettes flanked 143 cm (56'/4 in.) long.
by a pair of incurving leaves. The kaftan must have been made for Osman II 73. See London 1950, no. 1; this fragment is 147.3 x 66 cm (58 x 26 in.).
in the second decade of the seventeenth century. 74. Istanbul 1983, E. 140.
53. Berker 1981, 19; Mackie 1980, pi. 64; Denny 1982, pi. 135; and Rogers 75. See Mackie 1973, no. 9 for a fragment. For kaftans see Oz 1950, pi.
1986c, pi. 91.
Altay
and
5; Mackie
54. Some of the kaftans identified as Suleyman's range between 120 and XVIII; Frankfurt 1979, 4 vol. 2, no. 5/6. 1980, ill. 204; Istanbul 1983, E. 141;
and
1985,
140 cm (roughly 47 to 55 in.); others, mostly wool overcoats, are 160 to
167 cm (about 61 to 63 in.). There are also a few jackets 72 to 80 cm (about 76. Mackie 1973, no. 22.
28 to 31 in.) long. The shorter kaftans could have been worn when he was a 77. Oz 1950, pi. XXVIII.
young man, and the long overcoats might have dragged on the ground. It is 78. Altay 1979, 15; and Istanbul 1983, E. 135.
not known whether the robes stopped at the ankles or touched the ground. 79. Oz 1957, pi. XXIX.
His portraits made by Lorichs and Nigari, however, suggest that the hems of 80. One of these panels, removed from the mausoleum, is in the Victoria
the robes rested on the tops of his shoes. and Albert Museum.
55. Istanbul 1983, E. 25. 81. Binney 1981, Textile 1A; this piece measures 146 x 55.9 cm (57'/ 2 x
56. The same collaboration of calligraphcrs and illuminators appears on an- 22 in.).
other shirt, which may have been made several years earlier; published in 82. Forster 1968, 58 and 59.
Istanbul 1983, E. 27. 83. This example, owned by the Corcoran Gallery of Art, Washington, was
57. For a study of Ottoman embroidery techniques see Gónül 1969. cut from a larger piece and made into a small nihale by reusing its original
58. A large number of these tents are housed in the Military Museum in borders (Corcoran 1948, no. T. 3).
Istanbul, while a few arc in the Wawel Castle in Krakow and the National 84. A similar red and ivory velvet woven with metallic thread shows the
Museum in Budapest. See Mackie 1980, ill. 221; and Fehér 1975, pis. I, II, complete design constructed of two loom widths, but contains only a portion
and ill. 1. of its entire length. It is published in Lisbon 1963, no. 101. It measures 126
59. For a remarkable large early-seventeenth-ccntury embroidered floor cov- x 175 cm (49 /8 x 68% in.) and has a field identical to this example, but
5
ering measuring 548 x 212 cm (almost 17 x 7 ft.) sec Denny 1982, the border is composed of a scroll bearing plane-tree leaves.
pi. 130; and Istanbul 1983, E. 241. For prayer cloths see Istanbul 1983, 85. See Oz 1950, pi. XVII, where similarly patterned textiles are illustrated.
E. 238; and Frankfurt 1985, vol. 2, no. 5/22. 86. Weibel 1948.
60. Two of these are published in Berker 1981, 52; and Mackie 1980,
ill. 216. See also Berker 1978 for a study of handkerchiefs owned by the 87. Oz 1951, pi. XCIV; and Denny 1972, fig. 23.
Topkapi Palace. 88. For studies of court-style kilims see Yetkin 1971; Balpmar 1983; and
Petsopoulos 1979, 52-54.
61. See", for instance, Atil 1980, ills. 68, 85, 98, 103, and 117 and pis. 19
and 21. For illustrations in the Süleymanname see Atil 1986, 144, 152, 162, 89. See, for instance, Jenkins 1983, pi. 152; and Leth 1975, 118.
168, 178, and 180. 90. One of the carnation-patterned velvet yastiks was made into a chasuble
Warsaw
1983,
pi. XI. For others
with
published
medal-
central
62. Forster 1968, 134. in Poland, Lisbon 1963, in no. 109; and Mackie 1980, ill. 207. For a remarkable
lions
see
63. Some of these are published in Istanbul 1983, E. 126-129.
velvet saddlecloth using the same themes see Mackie 1980, ill. 208; and
64. See, for instance, the bohças, head scarves, and turban covers published Frankfurt 1985, vol. 2, no. 1 l/25a.
in Gonul n.d.; Berker 1981; Denny 1982, pis. 144, 145, 148, and 149; and 91. This example, 118 x 116 cm (46'/> x 45 /s in.), must have been made
5
Istanbul 1983, E. 146 and 245. One of the early turban covers in the Topkapi as a cover for a child's quilt; it is illustrated in Istanbul 1983, E. 247.
Palace belonged to Selim II. Decorated with sprays of spring flowers and
blossoming trees, it shows a superb rendition of the naturalistic style. 92. Warsaw 1983, pi. II.
93. See, for instance, Riyadh 1985, no. 161.
65. The largest collections of these covers are in the Victoria and Albert Mu-
seum, the Textile Museum, Washington, and the Art Institute of Chicago. 94. See, for instance, the velvet reproduced in Dimand 1944, 216; and the
Several other examples were published in Mackie 1980, ill. 217; Denny tile panel from the Mosque of Rustem Pa§a illustrated in Denny 1977, fig.
1982, pis. 138, 141-143, 146, 147, 151, 153, 155, and 156. 79. This motif was used in an oversize format on kaftans during the seven-
teenth and eighteenth centuries; see Oz 1950, pis. I and II; and Istanbul
66. See Istanbul 1983, E. 144; the same document states that 450 to 500
dirhems (almost one and a half kilos or more than three pounds) of silk 1983, E. 289.
thread were used for each of seven sheets ordered. 95. See, for instance, the c. 1421 tiled mihrab from the Mosque of Mehmed
I
36. Tiles on
in
1980,
Odasi
and
the
Sünnet
Denny
Bursa
67. See Berker 1981, 32 and 33. Mausoleum illustrated in III are published pi. in Denny 1980, pis. 44-45 and ill.
of Murad
68. See, for instance, Falke 1936, figs. 285 and 286; Schmidt 1958, figs. 96 162. Tiles with mihrabs were also made in Iran as early as the twelfth
and 130; Mackie 1980, ills. 198 and 199; Atil 1981b, nos. 114-116 and century.
118; and Istanbul 1983, D. 175a and b.
5
69. The Boston fragment is 112 x 60 cm (44V& x 23 / 8 in.) while the Lon- 96. This fragment is published in Ellis 1969, fig. 9.
3
don piece is 124 X 65.5 cm (48'Vi6 x 25 /4 in.) and contains the full loom 97. Ellis 1969, fig. 10.
width. These may have been cut from the front and back panels of the kaf- 98. See Ellis 1969, fig. 3; and London 1983, no. 55.
tan, while the Binney Collection example appears to have been pieced from
232