Page 134 - Edo: Art in Japan, 1615–1868
P. 134

62
                                                                                      62
                                                                                      Jinbaori with mountain and
                                                                                      pine bark  design
                                                                                      Eighteenth century
                                                                                      Wool
                                                                                      104 x 47  (41 x 1872)
                                                                                      Kunôzan Tóshógü  Shrine, Shizuoka


                                                                                      •  During the Edo period jinbaori such
                                                                                      as this were decorated in striking pat-
                                                                                      terns taken primarily from traditional
                                                                                      textile designs, but on a larger  scale
                                                                                      to be recognizable and  impressive                    133
                                                                                      from a distance. This coat, with  its
                                                                                      highly stylized black and white moun-
                                                                                      tain and pine-bark lozenge motif, is
                                                                                      said to have been owned by the  sixth
                                                                                      shogun, Tokugawa lenobu, in  office
                                                                                      from  1709 to  1713. VH



                                                                                      63
                                                                                      Jinbaori with ship's sails

                                                                                      Eighteenth century
                                                                                      Wool and other  textiles
                                                                                                    3
                                                                                      85x100 (33Vax 39 /s)
                                                                                      Maeda Ikutokukai Foundation, Tokyo
                                                                                      Illustrated page  115


                                                                                      •  The jinbaori seems to have origi-
                                                                                      nated in European surcoats, and many
                     6i                               young. Determined to alleviate the  of the early coats were clearly not
                     Jinbaori with red and white stripes  poor economic situation, he  issued  purely Japanese in design and  form.
                                                      instructions to be frugal with  food,  This jinbaori surcoat is of white wool
                     Eighteenth/nineteenth  century
                                                      drink, and  clothing. He instituted  a  with the  design  of a European ship's
                     Wool and other  textiles
                                                      silver currency in place of rice pay-  sails on the back, waves at the bot-
                               3
                     IOIX55. 8 (39 / 4 X22)           ment and  a system  of local rents  and  tom, and  a sawtooth  motif bordering
                     Eisei Bunko Foundation, Tokyo
                                                      taxes. The system  proved unstable,  the sleeves. The shapes were cut out of
                                                      however, and the economy was further  the white cloth, and pieces of black,
                      • This garment was owned by Hoso-                               scarlet, yellow, and purple woolen
                     kawa Narishige (1755 -1835), the  damaged by a fire that destroyed  cloth were inlaid so that the  whole
                                                                       in Edo, forcing
                                                         domain's mansion
                                                      the
                     eighth lord of the Kumamoto domain  him into debt. He retired at the age  appears to be one piece with no visible
                     in Higo province. He was the  second  of fifty-six, and his son Narishige  joins or stitches.
                      son  of the fifth lord of the  Uji domain,  succeeded him. VH
                      Hosokawa Kobun. Kobun had been                                  This jinbaori was worn by Maeda
                      adopted as the successor to the  sev-                            Shigehiro, the  eighth  daimyo of the
                      enth lord of Kumamoto, Harutoshi,                               Maeda clan from  1729 to 1753.Through-
                      after Harutoshi's children all died                              out the Edo period the powerful Maeda
                                                                                       clan ruled over Kaga, Noto, and Etchü
                                                                                      provinces. Although they had been
                                                                                       supporters  of, and were related to, the
                                                                                       rival Toyotomi family, they were a
                                                                                       mainstay to the peace of Tokugawa
                                                                                      Japan. They provided a model of a
                                                                                       Confucian-based bureaucracy that
                                                                                       had been promulgated by the daimyo
                                                                                       Maeda Tsunanori  (1643 -1724). VH
   129   130   131   132   133   134   135   136   137   138   139