Page 68 - Edo: Art in Japan, 1615–1868

I would like to acknowledge 10 Carolyn Wheelwright, "A 12 Hayashi Razan, Razan sensei
help from my research Visualization of Eitoku's Lost bunshú 23 (1918), i.253b-
assistant, Atsuko Kikuchi, Paintings at Azuchi Castle," in i254b, quoted in Shively
and from Richard Hodges. Warlords, Artists, and Common- 1965,139-
ers: Japan in the Sixteenth
1 Owen Jones was a theorist Century, ed. George Elison and 13 Kóno Motoaki, "Nikkó
and designer who created the Bardwell Smith (Honolulu, Tóshógü to Kanó Sanraku,"
Grammar of Ornament series, 1981), 87-112. Nikkó Tóshógü no sôshoku
which attempted to collect monyó, jinbutsu, dóbutsu, ega
and illustrate ornament pat- 11 An example of the sumptuary (Tokyo, 1994), 122-130.
terns from all over the world. laws can be seen in the follow-
ing list of prohibitions for 14 Takafuji Harutoshi, "Nikkô
2 David Brett, On Decoration the merchant class (chônin) of Tóshógü no horishi ni tsuite,"
(Cambridge, 1992), 36. Edo, made in 1649: Nikkó Tóshógü no sóshoku monyó,
1. Servants of chônin should shokubutsu, chórui (Tokyo, 1994), 67
3 Quoted in Brett 1992, 44. not wear silk. 114-140.
2. Chônin should not wear
4 Yamanashi Emiko, Nihon no 15 Takafuji 1994,121-122,133-134.
bijutsu 6, no. 349 (Tokyo, 1995), wool capes.
40. 3. Entertainment by chônin 16 Takafuji 1994,121,133. Takafuji
should not be elaborate. notes that a list of all design
5 The Tokugawa government 4. Chônin should not have patterns was published in 1991
sent a small display to the Paris household articles with gold entitled Shiryóhen, Tóshógü no
Exposition Universelle in 1867. lacquer decorations. horishi (edited by the Tóshógü
bunko).
5. Chônin should not use
6 Section 137. Translation from
gold and silver leaf in their
Donald Keene, "Japanese building. 17 Kobayashi Tadashi, "Kinsei
Aesthetics," in Japanese shoki yüraku füzokuga no hen-
Aesthetics and Culture: A 6. Three-story houses should shitsu," in Nihon byóbue shüsei
Reader, éd. Nancy Hume not be built. 14, ed. Kobayashi Tadashi
(Albany, N.Y., 1995), 30-31. 7. Chônin should not have (Tokyo, 1979), 122-129.
gold lacquer on their riding
7 Tsuji Nobuo has written saddles or braided-thread 18 This idea was first proposed
numerous publications on the cruppers. by Kuroda Taizó of the
subject, including Nihon no bi 8. Saddle cushions should not Idemitsu Museum of Arts,
"kazari no sekai" ten (Tokyo, be made of materials other Tokyo.
1988); Nihon o kazaru (Tokyo, than pongee, cotton, and wool
1991); "The Concept of the blankets. 19 See, for example, the special
Decorative in Japanese Art" issue of the ceramic magazine
(in English and Japanese), in 9. Weddings of chônin should Tósetsu, no. 414 (September
Japan and Europe in Art History not be elaborate. 1987), and Tóyó tóji 21-22
(Tokyo, 1995), 557-574; 10. Chônin should not wear (1990-1993), 5-134-
"Ornament (kazari) — An long swords or large short
Approach to Japanese Cul- swords. 20 Arakawa Masa'aki, "Kokutani
ture," Archives of Asian Art 11. Chônin should not dress yóshiki no sóshoku ishó no
(i994), 35-45- in an outlandish fashion. tokushitsu ni tsuite," Museum
[Tokyo], no. 485 (August 1991),
Donald H. Shively, "Sumptuary
8 Quoted in Tsuji 1994, 35. 19-36.
Regulation and Status in Early
Tokugawa Japan," Harvard
9 Translation from Edward 21 Nagasaki Iwao, "Designs for
Kamens, "The Past in the Journal Of Asiatic Studies 23 a Thousand Ages: Printed
Present: Fujiwara Teika and (1965), 129. Shively also writes Pattern Books and Kosode,"
(pp. 125-126): "Saikaku says
the Traditions of Japanese in When Art Became Fashion:
Poetry," in Word in Flower: The that the type and quality of Kosode in Edo-Period Japan,
Visualization of Classical Litera- clothes to be worn are dictated ed. Dale Carolyn Gluckman
ture in Seuenteenth-Century by the necessities of status or and Sharon Sadako Takeda
profession, whether samurai,
Japan, ed. Carolyn Wheelwright (Los Angeles, 1992), 103.
(New Haven, 1989), 30. merchant, or prostitute. If
there is a logic to distinctions 22 Okakura Kakuzó, ideals of the
in function, distinctions must East (Rutland, Vt., 1970), 10.
also be maintained in appear-
ance. Exceeding one's status
did not offend heaven as
much as it did the Tokugawa
government."