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United States (Apurva Mehta, Martin Kunz and Tamura Nobumichi) undertook            between AD 960 and 970, right at the beginning of the Song dynasty, where
a study of Jian ware glazes using a wide range of investigative techniques -        the author notes that tea bowls from Fujian were particularly treasured by
including optical microscopy, electron microscopy, Raman spectroscopy and           connoisseurs, and have glazes resembling the spots of partridge feathers.
synchroton x-ray techniques, which was published in 2014 as ‘Learning from          This would seem to be a direct reference to Jian wares and suggests that they
the Past: Rare ε-Fe2O3 in the ancient black-glazed Jian (tenmoku) wares’,           were produced as early as the 10th century.
in Scientifc Reports 4:4941; doi:10.1038/srep04941. Previous studies had
concluded that the iron oxides which provided the streaks in the Jian ‘hare’s       There were a number of factors which contributed to the rise in popularity of
fur’ glaze were hematite (a-Fe2O3), and that the crystallized iron in the shining   black-glazed wares during the Song dynasty. Not only were the potters able to
silver spots on the ‘oil spot’ glaze were magnetite (Fe3O4). The scientists in      create black glazes with rich depth of colour and glossy surface, but changes
the 2014 study were astonished to fnd that the crystals in the ‘oil spot’ glaze     in tea culture in China necessitated tea bowls which had dark glazes. While
were in fact remarkably pure ε-Fe2O3 phase (the epsilon phase), a very rare         the drinking of tea was already customary in the south of China by the early
and metastable relative of hematite. (Smaller quantities of ε-Fe2O3 were            Tang dynasty, it only spread to the rest of China in the 8th century – possibly
found in the Jian ‘hare’s fur’ glaze, but these were mixed with hematite.) The      as a corollary of the spread of Chan Buddhism. In the late 8th century Fengshi
fnd in relation to ‘oil spot’ glazes is remarkable, not least because this epsilon  wenjian ji (封氏聞見記 Things Seen and Heard by Mr. Feng) the author notes
phase was only identifed by scientists in 1934, while its crystalline structure     that a requirement of Chan Buddhism was that aspirants had to forgo sleep
has only been known since 1995, and only understood since 2005. It is a             and abjure the partaking of food in the evening, but were allowed to drink tea.
material that has important applications in the modern world, but it has proved     Mr. Feng explains that the Chan Buddhists carried tea with them wherever
very hard to make in laboratories – the crystals produced there being very          they went and that people copied them, thus spreading the tea-drinking habit.
small and contaminated by other phases. The epsilon phase crystals in the           The drink became very popular not only with the scholar-oficial class, but even
Jian ‘oil spots’ are not only signifcantly larger than those produced by modern     with emperors, and the Song Empeor Huizong (r. 1101-25), who was famous for
methods, but are also exceptionally pure.                                           his refned tastes and was a great connoisseur of tea, wrote a twelve-chapter
                                                                                    treatise on tea, Daguan Cha Lun (大觀茶論 Discourses on tea in the Daguan
The high-point of production for Jian ware tea bowls appears to have been           era, 1107-1110), published in 1107. Thus tea drinking became a much more
the period between the mid-Northern Song and the mid-Southern Song                  sophisticated activity in the Song dynasty, and acquired a considerable degree
dynasty. However, the excavations undertaken at the Jian ware kiln site of          of elegance, which was refected in the vessels made for its consumption.
Luhuaping (蘆花坪) in 1977, revealed the remains of a Five Dynasties kiln
producing celadon wares, which was discovered directly beneath the black            During most of the Tang dynasty tea was made by adding the fnely ground
wares kiln (see Zeng Fan, ‘Fujian taoci de lishi’, appendix to Zhongguo Taoci       tea powder to boiling water in a cauldron, but towards the end of the dynasty
Bianji Weiyuanhui, Fujian Taoci, Zhongguo Taoci, Shanghai, 1988, section 5)         another method became popular. In this method, which became the norm in
– suggesting that the black wares were being made in the late Five Dynasties-       the Song dynasty, boiling water was poured from a ewer onto powdered tea
early Northern Song period. Such an early date is also suggested by a passage       which had already been placed in a tea bowl. Even the tea used in this method
in the Qingyi Lu (淸異錄), attributed to Tao Gu (陶穀), and written sometime             was diferent from that previously employed. In the Song dynasty there was

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