Page 60 - CHRISTIE'S Chinese Ceramics & Works of Art 09/14 - 15 / 17

938
A VERY RARE MIDNIGHT-BLUE GAUZE FORMAL COURT ROBE, CHAOFU

19TH CENTURY
The midnight-blue gauze is worked in couched gold thread on the upper half with four fve-clawed dragons
clutching faming pearls amidst clouds and various beribboned precious objects, above the terrestrial
diagram and lishui stripe at the waist. The attached pleated, fared skirt is similarly worked, incorporating
sixteen dragons above two pairs of confronted dragons chasing faming pearls above another terrestrial
diagram and lishui stripe.
78√ x 48 in. (200.4 x 121.9 cm.)
$12,000-18,000

The chaofu, or attire of state, is the most important of the ceremonial costumes of the Qing court
comprising: chaopao or robe of the state, piling or projecting epaulets, hat, girdle, court necklace, and
boots. The two-part construction of chaopao, consisted of a short side-fastening jacket attached to a
pleated skirt, derived from Ming styles of court dress, and was adapted by the Manchu to incorporate
features refecting their equestrian heritage, such as the curved overlapping right front, a shape derived
from animal skins which was added for extra covering and protection; narrow sleeves with their lower
portion replaced with ribbed silk, allowing the wearer to bend his arm more easily when hunting; and
horse-hoof cufs, originally intended to protect the hands when riding in bad weather.
The current midnight-blue chaopao is embroidered with four front-facing, fve-clawed dragons on the
upper body and four profle, fve-clawed dragons on the skirt, which correspond to the specifcations
cited in Huangchao liqi tushi (Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court)
for a frst-rank or second-rank prince. The addition of the nineteen dragon roundels to the upper
section of the pleated skirt, a specifcation originally solely reserved for the Emperor, is likely a result of
loosening adherence to regulation for court attire towards the nineteenth century.
清十九世紀 石青紗繡彩雲金龍紋朝服

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