Page 94 - Bonhams, FIne Chinese Art, Linda Wrigglesworth Collection, May 13, 2021 London
P. 94

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           AN EXTREMELY RARE IMPERIAL HEIR-APPARENT APRICOT-
           GROUND SILK EMBROIDERED DRAGON ROBE, JIFU
           Qianlong/Jiaqing
           Meticulously worked on the front and back in satin stitch and couched
           gold threads with nine writhing, five-clawed dragons clutching or
           pursuing flaming pearls amidst dense trailing scrolls of five-coloured
           clouds interspersed with bats, Shou characters and Wan symbols, all
           above the terrestrial diagram and lishui stripe at the hem, picked out
           in vibrant shades of blue, yellow, red, coral and green, reserved on a
           deep apricot ground, the matching dark-blue-ground collar and cuffs
           worked with further dragons amidst further bats, clouds and waves,
           lined in blue silk.
           166cm (65 3/8in) wide x 149cm (58 5/8in) long.
           £60,000 - 80,000
           CNY540,000 - 720,000
           清乾隆/嘉慶 杏黃地繡金龍彩雲紋皇太子吉服袍

           Provenance: an American private collection
           Linda Wrigglesworth, London

           來源:美國私人舊藏
           倫敦Linda Wrigglesworth




           Superbly embroidered on both the inner and outer surface with nine   The impeccable tailoring and the depictions of dragons clutching,
           resplendent lively five-clawed dragons riding the heavens, finely   rather than chasing, flaming pearls, suggest that this robe would
           worked in metallic gold threads amidst a profusion of five-coloured   have been worn by a high-ranking individual. According to the
           trailing clouds interspersed with a multitude of bats, the present robe is   ‘Illustrated Regulations for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial
           a rare and remarkable example of its type.        Court’Huangchao liqi tushi 皇朝禮器圖式, edited in 1759, the apricot-
                                                             orange colour xinghuang of this magnificent robe, was one of the
           The remarkable embroidery and auspicious symbolism relating to   ‘Five Imperial Yellows’ that could only be worn by the Heir Apparent
           the ten thousand folds of happiness is conveyed by the combination   to the emperor, as well as Princes and Princesses of the First Rank
           of multiple bats and wan symbols, making it very likely that the   and Imperial Consorts of the Second and Third Degree; see M.Medley,
           robe would have been worn by Aisin Gioro Yongyan, before he was   The Illustrated Regulations for Ceremonial Paraphernalia of the Ch’ing
           enthroned as the Jiaqing emperor following the Qianlong emperor’s   Dynasty, London, 1982, and L.Wrigglesworth, Imperial Wardrobe,
           formal retirement in 1795.                        Berkeley, 2002, pp.14-30.

           All parts are original including the apricot-orange ribbed sleeve   The ‘Regulations’ confirmed the importance of a new type of robe,
           extenders.                                        the jifu or longpao, as semi-formal court wear and brought the cosmic
                                                             purpose of Imperial rule into sharp focus. The careful arrangement of
                                                             sinuous dragons writhing amid clouds and above the universal ocean
                                                             washing against the earth mountain, quickly transcended the political
                                                             and ethnic priorities of Imperial government to become universal
                                                             symbols of the empire.











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