Page 11 - Lawn & Landscape Guide AL
P. 11

 Top Dressing: Top dressing a lawn is the process of adding a thin layer of material over your lawn. Typically, 1/4”-1/2” of sand, top soil, or compost is spread over the lawn by a top dressing machine or something as basic as a wheel barrow or shovel. Prior to top-dressing, cut your lawn. This allows the sand to better penetrate your lawn and settle right where it needs to go. After applied, the material should be drug or raked in evenly. Top dressing can improve soil structure and drainage. Low areas in lawns can hold water longer which sets the stage for turf diseases to set in. So, not only will you improve your lawns drainage with top dressing but it will also make for a smoother ride over the lawn when you mow.
Dethatch: Thatch is a mix of dead and living plant material where the stems and roots meet. Some thatch, less than 1⁄2” is beneficial for the plant. There is nutritional value there for the plant and allows air, water, and nutrients to move more freely into the soil. If the thatch is too thick, it will become a barrier not a benefit. Too much thatch can eventually restrict air and nutrient flow and begin to suffocate the plant. Dethatching is a machine or could be a rake used to help remove the excess thatch. This process digs in the thatch layer like a rake and pull up thatch that will eventually will then need to be removed if done manually. Also, as temperatures are changing, rake up oak or any other small tree sapling seeds from the lawn. This will help prevent germination. Pre-emergent’s continue down through the soil layer as time goes by and rainfall occurs. Saplings often time germinate as temperatures warm in the shallow thatch layer which keeps it safe from pre-emergent applications.
Fertilizer: Our warm season grasses are thriving and should be on a fertilization plan. Apply 1⁄2” lb of Nitrogen per 1000 sqft along with micro-nutrients to keep your lawn green and healthy. *No nitrogen should be applied if your lawn is suffering from turf diseases.
Post-emergent: Apply a selective herbicide for weeds that are actively growing, and there should be a wide variety from which to choose. When lawns are transitioning and there is a lot of precipitation, this is ideal, for weed germination.
Fire Ants: Fire ant stings are very painful and are no joke! They thrive in warmer temperatures and but they are active 12 months a year. Fire ants search for areas of direct sunlight so your lawn is a perfect fit. Their mounds can develop very quickly especially after rainfall. Broadcasting baits are most effective.
Turf Insect Alert: In April there are many insect active that need our attention. Mole Crickets are still active, as they will be for the next several months. It is common this time of year for mole crickets to begin to swarm. They can be seen or heard swarming as they fly into windows and other structures. Mole crickets can quickly damage your lawn so early detection and control is vital. Ground Pearls are another turf parasite that can cause MAJOR damage. Ground pearls are below the surface of the soil which makes them hard to detect. They latch to the roots of the turf grass and restrict nutrient flow and thus starves the plant to death. There is no known control measure for ground pearls. Digging up the infected areas is the best way to get rid of this dangerous lawn pest. There are many other turf pests that can be present at this time. (Mosquitos, Fleas, Ticks, etc.)
 




























































































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