Page 22 - Sonoma County Gazette April 2017

A Good Egg
By Ron Skaar
Human beings have been consuming eggs, from many species of fowl, since
the beginning of our stay on earth. Evidence of egg eating dates well back into the early Stone Age.
Eggs Benedict with Bacon, Tomato and Arugula
1⁄2 cup dry white wine
8 large whole eggs, plus 4 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1 stick unsalted butter, melted
1 1⁄2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1⁄2 teaspoon Tabasco
8 slices of applewood-smoked bacon, halved crosswise 1 large vine-ripe tomato, sliced
5 ounces baby arugula
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
4 whole-wheat English mu ns, split and toasted
Domestication of birds began in ancient China, as far back as 6,000 B.C. Three centuries later, jungle fowl were being domesticated in India. Records from Egypt and China show that domesticated fowl where laying eggs for human consumption by 1,400 B.C.
In a heatproof bowl set over a pot of barely simmering water, whisk the 4 egg yolks with the wine and a pinch of salt until doubled in volume, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the melted butter, whisking constantly until a thick creamy sauce forms. Whisk in the lemon juice and Tabasco. Keep hollandaise warm, whisking occasionally.
In the 1860’s, supposedly, a hung over Wall Street banker entered Delmonico’s in lower Manhattan and ordered “buttered toast, poached eggs, crisp bacon and a hooker of hollandaise”. The maitre d’hotel was so impressed with the dish that he put it on the menu but substituted ham for the bacon and an English mu n for the toast.
Bring a large deep skillet of water to a simmer over medium heat. In a frying pan, cook the bacon until crisp, turning once. Transfer to paper towels and toss the arugula in a bowl with 1 tablespoon bacon fat.
There may be con icting accounts as to it’s origin but Eggs Benedict is a national treasure which is celebrated on April 16th. Creative variations include Eggs Blanchard which substitutes béchamel sauce for the hollandaise or Eggs Florentine which swaps the ham for spinach and Eggs Atlantic which uses smoked salmon in place of ham or bacon.
Add vinegar to the simmering water. One at a time break the eggs into a small bowl and pour them into the simmering water, leaving plenty of space between them. Poach the eggs until whites are set and yolks are still runny, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer eggs to the toasted English mu n halves, that have been topped with the bacon and sliced tomato, then cover with arugula and hollandaise sauce. Serve immediately. 4 servings.
Egg consumption dropped 22 percent during the cholesterol-conscious 1980’s and 1990’s. Since the USDA lowered the eggs cholesterol count their consumption has been steadily increasing, though still well shy of the 400 hundred eggs consumed per capita in 1945!
In classic Greece, hard and soft-boiled eggs were enjoyed during dessert. The Romans brought back egg laying fowl they found in Gaul, England and among the Germanic people. Apicus, the noted Roman writer and connoisseur, had recipes for baked custard and deviled eggs.
During the Middle Ages the economical and versatile egg was consumed more than any other food stu . Soft-boiled and poached eggs were considered easier to digest, prepared for invalids and preferred by the wealthier class. Eggs continued to be used has a binding agent in many baked savory and sweet recipes.
On his second trip in 1493, Columbus’ ships carried the first breed of domesticated chickens to the new world. Many pioneer farmers acquired laying hens to supply their own family with eggs and sold any extras at local farmers markets.
22 - www.sonomacountygazette.com - 4/17
There are several easy ways to make hollandaise and this recipe includes one of them. Another Eggs Benedict twist is the Blackstone which incorporates bacon and tomato. This recipe goes one step further, adding baby arugula for an Eggs BLT a ect.
Accept for the yolks cholesterol, eggs are one of nature’s near-perfect foods full of high-quality protein, vitamin B12, ribo avin and selenium. The white is almost pure protein, nearly perfect because of its balance of amino acids.
Photo by Jon Russo