Page 102 - The Book For Men Fall/Winter 2023

IN ITS SPRING/SUMMER MENSWEAR COLLECTION, THE SEEMINGLY all-seeing, all-knowing tastemakers at Louis Vuitton have introduced a 2024 formalwear capsule that epitomizes the Maison’s new codes of contempo- rary elegance. From modern twists on classic tuxedos to elevated everyday essentials, this new chapter from Louis Vuitton ushers in a revitalization of “quiet luxury.”
It’s a term that has been at the centre of the pop culture discourse this year. For menswear enthusiasts, “quiet luxury” has long been something of an industry staple, established as far back as Italy’s Renaissance and reborn time and again to counterbalance more audacious collections. But, for most, quiet luxury has been a style phenomenon stirred up by HBO’s boardroom-based mega-hit Succession.
Throughout the award-winning show’s final season, blog posts and Tik- Toks spread like viral wildfire, vying to be the first to proclaim quasi-protag- onist Kendall Roy’s leather bomber jackets and wool topcoats as exemplars of quiet luxury. But Roy’s take on quiet luxury was less aspirational and more representative of the character’s need to belong in high society. HBO deals in costumes, not fashion, after all. Louis Vuitton’s approach to quiet luxury — as one might imagine — is rather different, chiefly because the label has never sought to conform.
Instead, Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection offers a tasteful reinvention of timeless masculine styles with the contemporary flairs one would expect from the Parisian fashion house. While the large menswear capsule is ambitiously sized, the combination of single-breasted suits, seasonal footwear, fine leather accessories, and more casual statement pieces comes together cohesively.
Contemporary formal attire sits at the core of the collection. From Starry Night tuxedos to the use of the tonal Jacquard Thistles motif and embellished Monogram Eclipse style, each piece is subtly unique. And, while most of the collection’s leather accessories complement the eveningwear releases, Louis Vuitton’s Varenne derbies in glossy black leather and its subtle Fastline belt bag from the beloved LV Aerogram family have been made specifically to pair with this capsule of suits and tuxedos.
Louis Vuitton’s business suiting has also seen a smattering of subtle embellishments and enhancements through the lens of this new era, touches introduced across a collection that features impeccably tailored single-breasted suits and coats crafted from sumptuous fabrics. Each piece emphasizes its clean lines and flattering cuts to provide modern men with elevated spins on their staples.
Solid, striped, and patterned shirts add distinct individuality to these everyday ensembles, while accessories including the graphite grey Keepall Damier Graphite and the Lockit Millesime serve as perfect finishing touches to the more dynamic patterns. Not to be overlooked are the seasonal footwear styles, including the Sorbonne loafers, Varenne Chelsea boots, and derbies in rich shades of cognac, tobacco, dark blue, and black leather. Completing the
capsule, a series of small leather goods sustain the sophistication, with one hundred per cent cashmere scarves and fresh variations on the Horizon travel bag refining existing Louis Vuitton icons.
Much of the label’s last Spring/Summer menswear collection, unveiled in June 2022, centred around the vibrancy of ‘90s skater culture, in a thoughtful nod to the late designer Virgil Abloh. The collection was daring, colourful, and the perfect tribute to Abloh’s work. But now, Louis Vuitton is charting a new path with its creative leads — one coded with these tasteful, quietly luxurious touches.
And, despite the restrained tailoring and discreet accessories, the most notable example of this graceful shift can be found in the collection’s casualwear. Louis Vuitton’s latest take on a suede leather jacket breathes new understated life into a time-honoured look, while crewnecks and cardigans (adorned with contrasting two-tone Jacquard Monogram motifs on their sleeves) add sufficient interest and idiosyncrasy to the range.
Louis Vuitton has also revealed a double-breasted jacket featuring a con- tinuous LV Crosses motif, short- and long-sleeved shirts showcasing the new Monogram Eclipse and Monogram Wave designs, and a Voltaire derby bearing the iconic LV motif in colours ranging from white to neon green. Completing the casual side of the collection, an array of bags — including the LV Aerogram backpack and the Taurillon and Eclipse flat bags — promise to pair perfectly with either weekend getaways or everyday use.
Because, at its core, Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection is suffused with practical, refined subtlety. And, if we are to learn anything from the social media craze around quiet luxury and Succession’s misappropriation and misrepresentation of the notion, it’s that luxury logomania, dominant for the past several years, no longer speaks as loudly as it once did. Luxury today isn’t a billboard. It’s a distinction achieved through high-quality materials, incomparable construction, and unparalleled reputations.
Louis Vuitton understands this balance — between elegant simplicity and tireless attention to detail — better than almost any other brand. And, if this latest collection is any indication, the Parisian label understands exactly what modern men want from their clothes: meticulous craftsmanship, impeccable artistry, and a diverse capsule — as composed as it is creative.
102 BFM / FW23 STYLE / CALM AND COLLECTED
IMAGES COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON.