Page 40 - The Book For Men Fall/Winter 2023

Bedding Down
Prada reconceptualizes comfort with duvet-style bombers and vests
SINCE RAF SIMONS JOINED PRADA AS THE FASHION HOUSE’S
co-creative director in early 2020, he has worked seamlessly and successfully with the Milanese brand’s matriarch, Miuccia Prada. Together, the two designers have turned out collection after clever collection, surprising us with the many smart-yet-zany creations that have come to typify the label. For Fall/Winter 2023, the duo kept this experimental streak going, blending militaria with comfort and playing with sizing using striking exaggerated proportions.
Within the collection, the standout pieces are padded vests and bomber jackets — designs softer and more pillowy than even the most inviting duvets. But Simons is no stranger to oversized silhouettes such as these, having frequently turned out larger-than-life pieces through his original, eponymous label, which launched in 1995. These more modern spins on the style are decidedly different, though realized in a way that is undeniably Prada-esque, and calling to mind both sumptuous bed linen and the brand’s famous nylon fabric by using a versatile cotton canvas cloth.
It’s a masterclass in pairing comfort with style. The vests and bombers are filled with plush goose down, which serves not only to keep wearers warm and protected from the elements but also gives the pieces an almost cartoonish curvature and puffiness that pushes the limits of modern menswear to the extreme.
The Golden Age
As Timberland’s iconic boot celebrates its half-century, the brand unveils five limited edition designs to commemorate the occasion
HOW DO YOU CELEBRATE THE GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY OF THE GOLD
standard of boots? It’s a challenge that Timberland, a brand that introduced its iconic boot in 1973, faced earlier this year. The footwear company opted to commemorate the milestone with a limited release of its five most famous silhouettes — shoes reimagined with rich, buttery leather; golden metallic accents; and honey lug soles.
The 50th Edition Butters Collection honours the brand’s original six inch boots in yellow leather, which have become known as “Butters” in New York and Philadelphia and were entrenched in the hip hop scene of the ‘90s. The new spin on the classic boot is likely to get the most attention of the new designs (and rightfully so, as it pays respectful homage to the iconic silhouette by staying true to its heritage), but the other offerings in the new range are also well worth lacing up.
The 3-Eye Lug Boat Shoe is a particular highlight. Rooted in a menswear classic — the evergreen, preppy boat shoe — but given a sartorial step up, it’s a nice new way to see the recognizable Timberland look deployed. The Euro Hiker plays with the bootmaker’s famous palette by applying it to a more modern design, and the Super Boot sees a fan favourite style recreated in the label’s classic colourway. Offered in a limited run from October 5 — and available online, at Timberland stores, and from specialty retailers — the designs are a hard-wearing, high-stepping way to celebrate a sturdy history.
40 BFM / FW23 PORTFOLIO