Page 50 - Sharp September 2024

SAMMARCO
I supposeasignofmaturityisrealizingtheimportanceofagoodsteakhouse, not because of one’s innate desire to impress clients or their affinity for oysters Rockefeller. Instead, it’s because one realizes that steak is something that can, and should, be done just the way they like it. It is for that reason that, as we mature, we eventually get quite good at making it ourselves.
North American dining culture has entered a renaissance where we have dissociated the steak from the steakhouse — many restaurants now offer a nice steak on the menu, and we’ve learned to take a perfect cut for granted. Enter David Minicucci and Rob Rossi, the minds behind Michelin-starred Giulia and sister restaurant, Giulietta. Like you and me, they also have opinions on the steakhouse and, this fall, they’re doing something about it.
Having individually influenced Toronto’s restaurant culture, their new venture, Sammarco, marks the duo’s third project together. Fresh off a year that included their first Michelin star, the two decided to skip the victory lap and go straight for the next prize: an Italian steakhouse. Opening in November and located in Old Toronto, steps away from the theatre district, Sammarco does possess many qualities intrinsic to the steakhouse of times past: old building, rich millwork, and leather banquettes all serve as a reminder of the idea behind the spot, with a healthy inclusion of fine-dining detail such as custom linens, cart service, and a robust whisky selection.
That said, some elements will help breathe life into the old-school restaurant trope. The walls are adorned with Canadian artwork from galleries across the city, while terrazzo flooring and Italian stone offer quintessential Italian flair. As for the menu, their resume might be an indication of what is to be expected: unconventional steakhouse starters and sides alongside prime Canadian beef and a large fish and fresh seafood selection, paired with a wine and spirit selection that’s as playful as it is classic.
BONITO’S
Three projects in, Adrian Montesdeoca and Michael Kim are confidently eyeing down their next title defence. They’re in the big leagues now, and Bonito’s marks the next chapter for the young duo who have helped weave the web that encapsulates the Dundas West neighbourhood. There is already a lineup at the door and tickets are selling out quickly. At some point, the saying “you had to be there” will define places that Montesdeoca and Kim have had a hand in opening. Securing a spot at their bistro, Milou, at one of its three patio seats that border the front window, or popping in for the infamous lychee martini at Bar Bowie is still as hard today as it was the day they opened. Needless to say, these two have found themselves holding up belts in a few divisions, with no sign of an early retirement.
Having opened in late August, Bonito’s walks the line between classic and familiar. Where its older siblings play off tropes like the neighbourhood French bistro (Milou) or the movie backdrop New York cocktail bar (Bar Bowie), Bonito’s instead finds its identity in the cultural ambiguity that we’ve become
50 GUIDE • SEPTEMBER 2024
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FOOD
For me, the most exciting feature of Sammarco will be the Carlevale room. Getting its name from Michael Carlevale — owner of the original restaurant in the space called The Boston Club — the dining area will be a private room with its own entrance, bar, and restrooms. This will mark the first private din- ing experience for the pair, further adding to the old-school charm of the steakhouse. Sammarco, 4 Front St E, Toronto, ON.
BONITO’S PHOTO BY SCOTT PILGRIM