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so familiar with here in Canada, specifically in our relationship with food and drink. We see it all the time — that kind of place that is neither restaurant, nor bar, and yet sometimes both. You don’t know what to call it, you just know that they serve food there, and you’re not even sure what kind. They could probably make you a coffee. They can definitely make you a drink. It’s here that we should make the distinction between what a place serves and what it offers.
With Korean and Ecuadorian heritage, respectively, Bonito’s serves food influenced by Kim’s and Montesdeoca’s backgrounds, but what it offers is a lot closer to home. After speaking with them, it’s clear they agree that there’s a certain cheesiness to the idea of fusion cuisine. Alternatively, they looked to movements that haven’t received the same level of criticism or appropriation to find inspiration for their newest spot. Take for instance the Japanese “Yankii” movement, informed by ’50s rockabilly Americana, or the contemporary Chicano subculture in Nagoya, influenced by modern southeast Los Angeles. What Kim and Montesdeoca are serving feels like an ode to their roots, delivering their guests something less familiar than they might at a French bistro or cocktail bar. But perhaps it might be refreshing to go eat where things seem less familiar, especially if you can get in before the lineup. Bonito’s, 180 Ossington Ave, Toronto, ON.
speaking about how this project started, Smiles makes it clear that it’s collaboration that helps build a restaurant into something that feels less like a product and more like a place. The four founders always wanted to open a place together, and as the years went on, not only did they become more experienced in their craft, but they also became more sure of their individual and collective involvement. As Smiles puts it when discussing Le Violon’s conception, all bases would be covered; Park would do wine and beverage, Climan would do artistic direction, and Smiles and Laughren would take care of the menu. It seems simple enough, but it’s worth noting that rarely do all of these pieces come together from within ownership. A restaurant might have some of these elements, but generally must look externally to find the missing link. Le Violon’s advantage is akin to a home decorated by an interior designer versus the home of an interior designer; asking someone to make your home reflect you is as challenging as asking someone to design a restaurant to match the food, or to present drinks in a way that plays off the tone of the space. No one knows “you” as well as you, just as no one knows Le Violon like its founders.
These elements all play off of each other at Le Violon. The food is allowed to shine (after all, you are there to eat). The rest comes down to cohesion; the menu, the energy of the room, and the hospitality all feels very playful, detailed, and dialed in, yet unpretentious. That theme is obvious throughout the dining experience. Perfectly prepared chicken mousse adorned with radish is served in what looks like a vintage ice cream cup. In a similar vein, you can be shooting the breeze in the same tone with the server before or after ordering a nice bottle of red Burgundy. To imply that the service is good here is to compare it to anywhere else that serves, and Le Violon understands that mere service is something best saved for the gas station. Le Violon, 4720 Rue Marquette, Montréal, QC.
LE VIOLON
After visiting Le Violon this past summer, I was reminded of this maxim: “Service is what you receive at a gas station; hospitality is what you receive at someone’s home.” Here lies the single most important reason why Montreal has cemented itself as one of the world’s best restaurant destinations. Today, the same quality of food can be found anywhere with passionate people and access to good ingredients. So then, what exactly is that tangible quality that separates Montreal’s food scene from other cities? The answer to that question can be found at Le Violon, the latest collaboration between Danny Smiles, Andrew Park, Mitch Laughren, and Dan Climan.
After speaking with Smiles, who tag teams the food program with Laughren, I realized the quality that spots like Le Violon have: a team. When
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GUIDE • SEPTEMBER 2024 51
FOOD
LE VIOLON PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY DIONNE