Page 54 - Sharp September 2024

A RICH HISTORY
ON THE CUSP OF RENOVATION, THE DALMORE DISTILLERY HAS COUNTLESS STORIES TO TELL
By Justin Mastine-Frost
T UCKED AWAY IN THE NORTHERN HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND,
The Dalmore rests on the same historic shores of the Cromarty Firth that its founders first started distilling on in 1839. If these hallowed walls could talk, the lengthy string of historical tales would keep visitors entertained for ages. It is not a fairy tale of perfection and prosperity, but rather one of a life well lived; it’s a tale that fostered innovation, growth, and ongoing refinement. It’s through these lived experiences that The Dalmore has evolved into one of the best whiskies to ever leave this mighty isle.
Starting from the beginning, it wasn’t until 1867 that The Dalmore landed in the hands of the Mackenzie brothers, who took over its lease at that time and added the family’s 12-pointed stag crest to its branding that it still wears to this day. The brothers formally completed the purchase of the distillery in 1891, slowly and consistently ramping up production along the way. By leveraging the trade access of its former owner, Alexander Matheson, it became the first malt whisky distributed in Australia, and by the tail end of the 1800s, the distillery was capable of producing upwards of 1.2 million litres of whisky annually.
Unfortunately, as the more astute whisky connoisseurs know, the early 20th century was a challenging time for the Scottish whisky industry, and things started to get a bit rocky. Between a global overstock of the spirit, a distillery fire, and mounting debts, the Mackenzies were forced to sell off The Dalmore’s estate in 1913 in order to keep the distillery alive. Little did they know that the arrival of the First World War would only complicate things further.
Between the U.S. Navy commandeering the distillery from 1917 to 1920 — using it as a location to build and store landmines — the introduction of prohibition in the United States, and the subsequent challenges brought by the Second World War, things weren’t easy, yet the distillery persevered. Come 1960, the distillery merged with its long-standing customer Whyte & Mackay Ltd, who remain its proprietors through to the present day. Year by year, decade by decade, The Dalmore was returned to its former glory, and now stands as one of the premier Scottish whisky brands on the market.
Walking the grounds of the distillery, this rich heritage is palpable. While numerous buildings have seen renovation over the years, and a more expansive renovation is currently underway, efforts have been undertaken to preserve as much as possible. The water used in The Dalmore is still taken from the River Averon, which runs through the small town of Alness, where the distillery is located. The waters of the river flow from the nearby Loch Morie, located deep in the heart of the Northern Highlands. The distillery runs eight stills at present, of varying form, however its old Spirit Stills date back to 1874 (with components replaced as needed, due to the wear and tear of decades of function).
The Dalmore’s portfolio has been growing over the last two decades, with a principal focus on the extensive use of sherry and port casks in its maturation. Alongside the 12, 15, 18, and 21-year expressions, the core collection also includes a Port Wood Reserve, a Cigar Malt Reserve that is matured in ex-bourbon casks, Cabernet Sauvignon barriques and Matusalem Oloroso sherry casks, and the one-of-a-kind King Alexander III. The latter is the pinnacle of the core collection and one of several top-shelf whiskies developed by The Dalmore’s master distiller Richard Paterson, OBE.
Paterson, alongside master whisky maker Gregg Glass, works his magic on an assortment of limited releases that have garnered international attention. This past spring, the second instalment of the Luminary series was unveiled, featuring sculptural work by Melodie Leung of Zaha Hadid Architects, and this fall is set to bring another rare collection to market with the anticipated expansion of The Dalmore Cask Curation Series.
As always, it’s onwards and upwards for The Dalmore, and come 2025, the freshly renovated distillery will offer a home fit for brand’s commitment to the “making of a masterpiece.”
54 GUIDE • SEPTEMBER 2024
SHARPMAGAZINE.COM
FOOD & DRINK