Page 56 - Sharp September 2024

UNCHARTERED WATERS
IN DIOR’S NEW SAUVAGE EAU FORTE, FRANCIS KURKDJIAN TELLS A STORY ABOUT THE ELEMENTAL POWER OF WATER
By Jeremy Freed
FOR FRANCIS KURKDJIAN, EVERY SCENT TELLS A STORY.
Over the last three decades, the master perfumer has created some of the most important scents for the biggest names in luxury fragrance. As perfume creation director at Parfums Christian Dior since 2021, he is now tasked with adding to one of the most formi- dable perfume lineups in the world. His latest opus, Dior’s Sauvage Eau Forte, uses the perfumer’s unique aesthetic and narrative style along with new technology to create the first high-concentration men’s fragrance with a water-based formula that’s entirely free of alcohol. As impressive as it sounds, it’s even more remarkable to smell, with the freshness of an eau de toilette and the intensity of a traditional parfum.
Like everything Kurkdjian creates, building Dior Sauvage Eau Forte began with the fragrance’s name and a narrative concept, in this
case about the raw elemental power of a waterfall. “To me, creating new perfumes is a way to tell [a] story. I start by the name or a potential name and then think about what I should do to build the story,” he explains. “And only once I have the name and the story, then I start working, meaning I start blending the raw materials together. And if I don’t have the name, if I don’t know why I’m doing something, there is no way for me to create. I just work to find the story.”
To create a scent that evokes the thunderous power of a waterfall, Kurkdjian saturates Eau Forte’s ingredients with water on a molec- ular level using a method the perfumer likens to shaking a cocktail. Thanks to this new patented “nano-emulsion” technique, Sauvage Eau Forte is both remarkably fresh and long-lasting, with notes of lavender, spices, and musk that develop in unexpected ways, warm and cool notes that linger, and a freshness that grows stronger over time. “When you cut flowers, when you remove life from plants, you remove water [and] you lose the dewiness,” says Kurkdjian. “So, the idea was, ‘How can I bring that idea of water and life and dewiness?’”
The result is a fragrance that’s spicy, woody, musky, and in- tensely fresh, with a distinctive gradient bottle befitting its elemental inspiration. Executed in the signature midnight blue of Eau Sauvage, the flask features ombré shading from black to clear, with a milky quality that extends to the translucent glass base. As much a tribute to the formidable power of water as the liquid it contains, this design is anything but an afterthought. Instead, it’s yet another distinct chapter in a story by one of the world’s great storytellers. His medium just happens to be scent.
56 GUIDE • SEPTEMBER 2024
SHARPMAGAZINE.COM
GUIDE
SAUVAGE EAU FORTE ($175) BY DIOR BEAUTY