Page 118 - AG 7-2011 Revised 2016

Photo Courtesy of PBI/Gordon Corp. Spurge
(Euphobia maculate)

Spotted spurge is a summer annual. While similar to prostate
spurge, there are several subtle differences in the two varieties.
Spotted spurge has a more erect growth habit than prostrate
spurge. They have similar leaves, which are small and oblong
shaped with an irregular red to purple spot, but the leaf of spotted
spurge is slightly larger than that of prostrate spurge. Both spurges
will have leaves that grow opposite on the stem, but spotted spurge
has fewer leaves per stem.

Both spurges contain a milky sap in the stem. Prostrate spurge roots
at the nodes, spotted spurge does not. The flower of spotted spurge
is small and green in color. It germinates in mid spring and flowers
from June to September. Both spotted and prostrate spurge repro-
duce from seed, although prostrate spurge also roots at the nodes.
immature stage
Both spurges are found throughout the United States.
Integrated Pest Management Control Recommendations
Cultural Practices:
Spurge can tolerate compact soil conditions and is often found invading high traffic or otherwise stressed turf areas. It
is generally not found in dense, healthy stands of turfgrass, so good maintenance practices constitute good prevention
of spurge infestation. Where high traffic is the problem, core aerate and attempt to divert traffic where possible.
Physical removal of single plants can be easily accomplished. Follow good turf management practices including
disease and insect control and proper fertilization.

Herbicide Use:
A preemergent herbicide may prevent some spurge germination. Use a postemergent broadleaf herbicide as needed
to eradicate spurge infestation. For optimum control, make your herbicide application to spurge that is actively growing
and in the four-leaf to flower stage of growth.

START WEED MANAGEMENT BEFORE PLANTING THE LANDSCAPE
by Gary King, Ph.D.

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” is very true in weed management. Preventing weeds from
gaining a foothold is much easier and less expensive than getting rid of them after they establish, especially if
they go to seed or form resistant structures.
It is critical to understand that a mature weed which has developed seeds may pose a problem that is a hundred
or thousands of times harder to solve.

Pre-plant Site Preparation

After you’ve identified the weed species, map their locations and date that they emerge for future reference and
treat them with your selected herbicide.

For annual weeds, one or 2 cycles of irrigation, followed by cultivation of the soil surface or spraying to kill the
weeds before they flower and form more seed may be sufficient to eliminate most of the population.

For perennials with resistant structures, you may need to dig them out and cultivate to bring up the buried stems,
rhizomes, tubers, etc. so they may dry out and die. At this time, any sprouting plants can be sprayed with a post-
emergent herbicide that is translocated to kill the underground weed structures.

Other options to the procedures listed above include:
--Fumigating the soil with a non-selective sterilant has the added advantage of disease control, however this
method faces many regulatory and environmental challenges that may eliminate this effective treatment as an
option.
--Steaming to pasteurize the soil for 30 min. at 160 degrees to kill most weed seeds and stolons, at 180 degrees
to also eliminate most diseases, nematodes, and insects. Steaming may lack sufficient penetration into the soil
mass, giving only partial weed control at considerable expense.
--Solarizing the soil to pasteurize it. Clear plastic sheeting is laid on the soil during long, hot days in summer. It
takes 4-6 weeks and gives only partial weed control, but may be sufficient when dealing only with annual weeds.

As you prepare the site for planting, remember to prevent re-infestation from surrounding sources of weed seed,
especially upwind or uphill from your planting areas.

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