Page 63 - DEVENIR MODELISTE MOD 1
P. 63

Diagram  1. Construction  frame,
                At the bottom of the papeÇ  draw the axis Xy,
                Drawing  the large hipline  :
                r  on the axis Xl place  AB  = 7/2 of the large hip measurement  + 3 cm forthe  construction
                                                                                                          =  rarge hip-line.
                e  From A and B, draw the two center axes perpendicurariJ                                      ,
                .   BE : Waist to large hip length                         ;;  .;"  ;;;il.
                                                 = iZ cm.
                Drawing  the waisiline  :
                e  Draw FE parallel  to AB.
                .
                    From  E on center front line, place  the front waist  length.
                o  BC  = center front line.
                o  From  F on center  back line, place  the back waist length.
                .  AD  = center  back line.
                .
                .   !9rify   that these. two center  lines are parallel.
                   Place  G at 9 cm below f on càntéiiront  tine.
                o  Draw  GH parallel  to EF  = small  Èip line,
                '  9n   waistline,  prace  Er so that  ÈÉ  = r/2 of the bust varue.
                '                               '
                   i;?i"ïbïT"ËJf;1fiii:      centàirront  rinâ' Ë.; ë;pËce tne bust rensrh  to this pararer  by a srraisht  rine"
               '   Draw  the busfline IJ perpendicurar   to_the center  rines and going through  p.
               .
                   9n  the center  back line,'ptace  [ = i'tZ ol.
               o  Draw the cross-line  perpàndicular
                                                    t-o the center  lines.
               Drawing  the axis for side seam lines :

               Like the skirt construction,  the side seam lines  are shifted 1 cm towards  the back.
                  On the large hipline  :
                        =
               '  Pu.k  44'   -  t/J of_the large hip measurement
               .  Front  = BB1  = I/4 of the taÉe Àip'rn"urrr"r"nt  -. 1.cm (shifting  the side seam).
                                                                   + 1 cm (shifting  the side seani;.
               .   On the busiline  :
               .   pack  =  T  = l/4 the full bust measurement.
                   frgnt-:_II'   - Uj tne.fuil bust ,éËiurur"nr  + 2 cm.
               o  Join AU1 and B1I1 with straight iinË.

               Drawing  the front neckline  :
               '   From  C, draw a p-erpendicular
                                               to the center front line and place  c1 so that  :
                  9Ct  = I/3 of 7z of the nect<line-màasurement   + 0.5 cm.
               '  lfgr   c1, draw perpendicurar
                                              to ôôr ano prace c2 so that  :
                  C1C2  = CC1 (wait  nàrorè ài"*ià!iÀ'Ë necttine curve).
               Drawing  the front shoulder line  :
              o  Place
                        Ç1,  ro that C1C3  = I/2 of C1C2.
              r  From  C3, draw a.perpendicutar
                                                ù CiC, upproximately  20 cm long.
              r  From  C2, place  the shoulde.  Ènàtf.,  ."asurement  on ttris perpendicular
              .  Draw  C2Ca  = front shoulder tiÀâl-  '                               line,
              Drawing  the back neckline  :
              r  From  D, draw a perpendicular
                  PD1  =_(1/3  of  1/z'of   the neckJin"  ,"àrr."ment)  + its 1/6.
                                               to the center  back line and place  D1 so that  :
              '
                 D1D2   = t/3 of DDi (wait  beforà JË;i;;tÀâ  iËàùrË Ëlî"1,
                  From D1, draw a_parailer  to ilréieniàr  oact< tiné unà-pÉà" D, so that :
              Drawing  the back shoulder line  :
              '   on the cross-back  rine, prace  LL1  =  1/z  of the cross-back  measurement.
              .
                                                               -- ---''
                       11, raise a parailet'to
              .   L1L2=DD1 +3cm,           thJienter  back iine.
                  1191"
              o  From  L2, draw a perpendicurar
              '                                rine to L1L2, severar  centimeters  in rength.
                 P#HJI:,'39i11"'r'j.ïîtî'j;     *i:ï1ilÈ;;'iË;;;'';easuremeni+             shourder brade dart varue,
                                                                                       're
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