Page 14 - August2020

On smaller scale models, you can usually cut through the
Removing and Repositioning Parts
On Your Aircraft Model
You can greatly enhance the realism of your model
aircraft by removing and repositioning parts. Also,
going this extra mile can give you the edge in
modeling competitions. This is because real aircraft
are rarely seen with their control surfaces (i.e.
ailerons, elevator, rudder, flaps, trim tabs, etc.) in
their neutral or retracted position. Furthermore,
because of their demanding maintenance needs,
military aircraft are often found in the hanger (or
hanger deck) with some hatches and access panels
removed. In this article, we will summarize the basic
techniques for removing and reattaching plastic
model aircraft control surfaces and parts. For an
excellent, detailed document with lots of helpful
pictures, we recommend downloading this
tutorial from the very accomplished modeling
instructor Mike Ashey.
First off, don’t be compelled to remove and reattach
all of the control surfaces on your model. Think about
what will give maxim impact versus effort and risk of
damaging the parts. The rudder is typically the first
part to consider because its deflection is usually the
most noticeable.
After that, I usually consider elevators, ailerons and
finally flaps respectively. One of the biggest factors
that determines the difficulty of removing a control
surface is whether or not you need to cut through or
around the hinges.
hinge because the hinges are too small to be noticed. As with
any model build, take a close look at photos of actual aircraft
and drawings to ascertain how much spacing there is between
the control surface and the wing. Also look at how much they
typically deflect so that your model is a realistic depiction.
The two most useful tools for removing control surfaces are a
scribe and a razor saw. Control surfaces on plastic models are
almost always separated from the wing by a deeply engraved
line or indentation. Start by checking the top and bottom of
the wing to see if the control surface engravings are lined up.
Don’t assume that they are and plan your cuts accordingly if
they are not. After deciding whether or not to cut around the
hinges, I usually start by scratching the separation line with a
scribing tool while using a straight edge. If there is no
engraved channel, use labeling tape to guide your scriber.
Keep running the scribing tool in the same direction as you cut
deeper.
A razor saw is very useful for cutting from the edge of the
wing/control surface in to the first hinge. Again, make sure
that you are aware of the top-bottom alignment of the
engraved lines. To ensure a clean cut along the intended path,
it is a good idea to scribe the path before cutting.
Repositioning trim tabs are another good way to add realism.
The good news is that most times they do not need to be
removed. You can usually cut the sides free and then bend
them up or down. A razor saw is typically the best choice for
this. Another nice effect to add realism to trim tabs is to add
control cables. Add a control horn to the tab and drill a tiny
hole into the corresponding wing. Run a thin stainless steel
wire between the two.
After removing and cleaning up the parts to remove excess
plastic, there are a number of ways to fill the voids. We
typically use plastic sheet stock and/or two-part casting resin.
You can cover the control surface or wing edge by cementing
on an oversize piece of plastic sheet stock. Once dried, you can
trim and sand the edges flush. This is easier than trying to
manipulate a tiny piece of sheet stock that you try to cut to
size. Another technique to fill the edges is to fill the entire
control surface with two-part casting resin. Mask the edges to
contain the casting resin and to keep the surfaces neat from
and resin spillover. Cut, sand and round the edges according to
your documentation and photos.