Page 114 - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice

Rope-to-Chain Materials Point Hudson Fid

Because rope is more susceptible to damage than The Point Hudson Fid (PHID) for three-strand
chain, it requires a higher safety factor. Therefore, and some single-braid rope is an obvious-once-
size the rope so that it is one-third stronger than stated advance on the old Swedish Fid. It is round
the chain it is spliced to. in cross-section, so it makes a smaller hole in the
rope to get the same clearance. And once it is
in, you turn it over, so the slot is open facing the
through the last link. The only thimble-free option strand you want to tuck; you can leave the tool in
the rope until the strand is completely home—no
was the very tidy, very secure, very tricky-to-do-well more dragging the end through a Dacron vise.
Chain Splice shown in Figure 4-8. Then along came (The PHID is available from the author.)
nylon, which is much stronger than manila or hemp,
so it can be much smaller: all three strands fit into the
link, making the Crown Splice practicable. But now
we have High Test chain, which is too small for all
three strands of nylon or Dacron. So the only splice
that will work is the previously archaic two-strand
splice, now cutting-edge technology. Sweet irony,
and it gets even sweeter: destruction tests show that
this splice approaches 100 percent efficiency, while
Crown splices and the like rarely exceed 80 percent.
Note: this is a high-skill knot, so make at least a
couple of practice splices before you put one on an
actual rode.
Before we move on to the making of this won-
derful splice, I will just mention that there is now
yet another skill-intensive rope-chain connection
available: the Spectra Soft Shackle (see 388). Using and work your way up to this more difficult job.
this marvel, you can join the chain’s end link to To start the splice, unlay the strands at least 3
an eyesplice in the rope. The connection is smooth feet. Tuck two of the strands through the last link
enough to get past chocks and gypsies, but can be of the chain (Figure 4-8A). Pull the two strands
disconnected and connected at will, to switch out through until the link reaches the odd strand. Be
rodes as needed, depending on anchoring depth, or gentle, so you don’t disturb the lay of the line. Lay
to replace worn components. the odd strand out a short way, leaving a groove.
The splice: Prepare the rope by soaking 6 feet Take whichever of the two link strands that leads
of one end in Elmer’s Washable School Glue, or fairest to the empty space. Bend it down, give it a
similar product. This is a non-toxic gel that will twist, and lay it firmly into this groove.
wash right out when the splice is done. Massage it Continue laying out the odd strand and laying
firmly into the rope. When it dries, the individual in the other strand until 6 to 8 inches of the latter
strands of rope will better hold their spiral shape, remain (Figure 4-8B).
or “lay,” while you splice. But treat things very gen- Before proceeding farther, look back the way
tly throughout the splice; unlike most others in this you came. Can you tell by appearance which strand
book, this splice requires that you preserve the lay you just laid in? If you can, that strand is imper-
perfectly. If you have no experience at articles like fectly tensioned, which means it will bear more or
grommets, or the Mending Splice that soon follows, less strain than the other two strands. Either way,
it will be a good idea to practice with one of them, the splice is weakened. Put everything in reverse

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