Page 39 - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice
P. 39

dled length. This works well and uses little material,
                                                               but short pieces aren’t really necessary, since a little
                                                               slack matters less here than on the mainsail. And
                                                               the oceans of the world are littered with dropped,
                                                               blown, or washed overboard sail stops. So, take an
                                                               old halyard instead (or use the sail’s downhaul),
                                                               and get into “Swedish Furling.” No, this is not an
                   Figure 1-22D. Marling Hitches—still more time-   ethnic joke like “Irish Pennant” or “Spanish Reel.”
                   consuming, but still more snug.             It’s a series of slipped hitches, again worked aft
                                                               (Figure 1-23).
                  and aft (the pulley principle). Better still, “marl” the   Start with a Bowline, bring the standing part
                  sail on. The Marling Hitch (Figure 1-22D) is a form  around the sail, and pass a bight of it through the
                  of overhand knot with the ends led at right angles to  eye of the Bowline. Pull the bight through until it is
                  the turn. It is less likely to slip and pass slack along  12 to 18 inches long or so, depending on the size of
                  the boom than Half Hitches. Compare these two  the sail. Now bring the standing part around again,
                  knots, the Marling Hitch and the Half-Hitch, until  in the opposite direction, and pull another bight
                  you are sure of the distinction between them.  through the eye of the first one. Repeat this maneu-
                      Marling is an excellent general-purpose lashing  ver, making a zigzag of interlocking bights down the
                  for bundles of wood, pipe, etc., and especially for  length of the sail. At the end, make a longer bight
                  tarp-covered cartop loads, where it keeps the tarp  and half-hitch it around the sail, or belay it to a con-
                  from blowing to noisy shreds as you drive.   venient cleat, post, or crewmember. To undo, cast
                                                               off the last bight and haul on the standing part. Zip,
                  Swedish Furling                              zip, zip! Ready to hoist. This technique also works
                  Moving forward from the main boom, we come to  on boomed sails, though care must be taken to keep
                  a doused headsail. It only needs to be held in place  blocks and cleats from snagging the bights.
                  temporarily. We’ll want to break it out with a min-
                  imum of fuss, so marling is too time-consuming to  A Marline Lashing
                  use here.                                    Moving aft, we come to a life-preserver bracket
                      The usual procedure is to tie “stops”—short  lashed to a lifeline stanchion. This is a permanent
                  lengths of rope or webbing—along the sail’s bun-  seizing of small twine made around a relatively light



                                     Figure 1-23. Swedish Furling. Easy to tie, a pleasure to untie.




















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