Page 5 - BLEACHING

We know this because it is visible during the bleaching process. I would like to confirm. I am now talking about Keratinisation

When you are bleaching black, dark brown or other darker colours, of human hair growing away from the scalp; not the testing strips.

the first pigments to be removed by the bleach The easiest way to explain Keratinisation is to look at you fingernails.
are the pigments in the Eumelanin. Purple, dark blue, blue and green. The white half moon shape at the base of the fingernail is new soft growth

which as yet has not had time to harden in the atmosphere.

As soon as the bleach is applied to black or dark brown hair
you will see the colour change to red within five minutes,

this is because all the Eumelanin has been removed

and we are left with the much stronger pigments in
Pheomelanin Red Orange and yellow.

The red and orange pigments also remove fast
leaving the hair very yellow, the yellow pigments take a long time

to be removed leaving the hair white. It is often necessary

to mix fresh bleach and reapply, sometimes more than once.

Never mix your bleach with peroxide higher than 9%

It is always a temptation when trying to lift a

natural base 2 to a natural base 10 to use 60 or 100 volume peroxide Human hair like the fingernail is soft for the first six weeks growth
to get the job done in a single application. This is not possible, and then begins to harden as it grows. If bleach is applied from

the hair will be extremely damaged and the scalp root to ends in one application then all the pigments will be removed

could suffer splits and bleeding. Multiple applications with 9% from the first six weeks growth within minutes. This usually creates

is the only safe and proper way. white roots and orange middle lengths and ends. To overcome this,
always apply the bleach to the middle lengths and ends first. Once

The exercises in the pre-bleach Level 1supply the correct formulas they have lifted to the level you require, mix fresh bleach

to be able to remove just the right amount of pigments and apply to the roots only, then comb through.
to alter the natural base shade as little as 1 shade or 9 shades lift.

For waist length hair or longer the process is the same only in 3 applications.

The final thing to take into account when bleaching is Keratinisation. This hair has had longer to grow so is much harder at the ends.
As the human hair grows out and away from the scalp it begins to harden from begin by applying bleach to the last foot of hair. Once this area has lifted

the effects of the atmosphere this is known as Keratinisation. mix and apply fresh bleach to the middle lengths and then comb through

This is not such a problem with the testing strips to the ends. Finally when the middle lengths and ends have lifted to
as they have been presoftened. However, on a human head the desired level mix and apply fresh bleach to the new growth

Keratinisation can be a real problem. at the root and comb through to the ends.