Page 4 - BLEACHING_Neat

We know this because it is visible during the bleaching process.
When you are bleaching black, dark brown or other darker colours,
the first pigments to be removed by the bleach
are the pigments in the Eumelanin. Purple, dark blue, blue and green.
As soon as the bleach is applied to black or dark brown hair
you will see the colour change to red within five minutes,
this is because all the Eumelanin has been removed
and we are left with the much stronger pigments in
Pheomelanin Red Orange and yellow.
The red and orange pigments also remove fast
leaving the hair very yellow, the yellow pigments take a long time
to be removed leaving the hair white. It is often necessary
to mix fresh bleach and reapply, sometimes more than once.
Never mix your bleach with peroxide higher than 9%
It is always a temptation when trying to lift a
natural base 2 to a natural base 10 to use 60 or 100 volume peroxide
to get the job done in a single application. This is not possible,
the hair will be extremely damaged and the scalp
could suffer splits and bleeding. Multiple applications with 9%
is the only safe and proper way.
The exercises in the pre-bleach Level 1supply the correct formulas
to be able to remove just the right amount of pigments
to alter the natural base shade as little as 1 shade or 9 shades lift.
The final thing to take into account when bleaching is Keratinisation.
As the human hair grows out and away from the scalp it begins to harden from
the effects of the atmosphere this is known as Keratinisation.
This is not such a problem with the testing strips
as they have been presoftened. However, on a human head
Keratinisation can be a real problem.
I would like to confirm. I am now talking about Keratinisation
of human hair growing away from the scalp; not the testing strips.
The easiest way to explain Keratinisation is to look at you fingernails.
The white half moon shape at the base of the fingernail is new soft growth
which as yet has not had time to harden in the atmosphere.
Human hair like the fingernail is soft for the first six weeks growth
and then begins to harden as it grows. If bleach is applied from
root to ends in one application then all the pigments will be removed
from the first six weeks growth within minutes. This usually creates
white roots and orange middle lengths and ends. To overcome this,
always apply the bleach to the middle lengths and ends first. Once
they have lifted to the level you require, mix fresh bleach
and apply to the roots only, then comb through.
For waist length hair or longer the process is the same only in 3 applications.
This hair has had longer to grow so is much harder at the ends.
begin by applying bleach to the last foot of hair. Once this area has lifted
mix and apply fresh bleach to the middle lengths and then comb through
to the ends. Finally when the middle lengths and ends have lifted to
the desired level mix and apply fresh bleach to the new growth
at the root and comb through to the ends.