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                                                     Permafrost











                e  surface  air  temperatures  in  Svalbard  were  warming  at  twice  the  global

                rate.   Climate   change   was   happening    faster   here   than   almost   anywhere   on
                Earth.
                   One    woman,      wearing    a   purple   woollen    hat   pulled   down     over   her
                eyebrows,  talked  about  witnessing  one  of  the  icebergs  doing  a  somersault  –
                something      that   happened     apparently    because    the   warming     waters    had

                dissolved it from beneath, causing it to become top heavy.
                   Another     problem     was   that   the   permafrost   on   the   land   was   thawing,
                soening     the   ground,    leading   to   landslides   and   avalanches     that   could

                destroy  the  wooden  houses  of  Long yearbyen,  the  largest  town  in  Svalbard.
                ere was also a risk of bodies surfacing in the local cemeter y.
                   It was inspiring, being among these scientists who were tr ying to discover
                precisely   what   was   happening    to   the   planet ,   tr ying   to   obser ve   glacial   and
                climatic activity, and in so doing to inform, and to protect life on Earth.

                   Back  on  the  main  boat,  Nora  sat  quiet ly  in  the    dining  area  as  ever yone
                offered sympathy for the bear encounter. She  felt unable  to tell them she  was
                grateful  for  the  experience.  She  just  smiled  politely  and  did  her  best  to  avoid

                conversation.
                   is  life  was  an  intense  one,  without  compromise.  It  was  currently  minus
                seventeen  degrees,  and  she  had  nearly  been  eaten  by  a  polar  bear,  and  yet
                maybe the problem with her root life had partly been its blandness.
                   She   had   come     to   imagine   mediocrity     and   disappointment       were   her

                destiny.
                   Indeed,  Nora  had  always  had  the  sense  that  she  came  from  a  long  line  of
                regrets and crushed hopes that seemed to echo in ever y generation.
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