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A32    FEATURE
               Thursday 19 december 2019
            The Tokyo taxi driver: Suit and tie — white gloves optional




            By STEPHEN WADE                                                                                                     "People  get  drunk  and
            Associated Press                                                                                                    sometimes  they  throw  up
            TOKYO  (AP)  —  Very  few                                                                                           in  the  car,  and  we  have
            countries deliver better ser-                                                                                       to clean up the car," Nori-
            vice than Japan: in shops,                                                                                          hito  explained.  He  said  he
            in restaurants, or in taxis.                                                                                        routinely  offers  a  specially
            It's  called  "Omotenashi"                                                                                          designed bag to unsteady
            and  translates  roughly  as                                                                                        customers.
            hospitality  —  or  offering                                                                                        If  that  doesn't  work,  and
            customers  unreserved  at-                                                                                          it's  what  he  termed,  "small
            tention.                                                                                                            damage,"  he  can  clean  it
            Visitors always comment on                                                                                          up  and  keep  driving.  If  it's
            it. And it's no accident.                                                                                           too  bad,  this  automatical-
            Take Tokyo taxi driver Nori-                                                                                        ly  ends  his  shift,  the  rest  of
            hito Arima, for instance, as                                                                                        which goes to cleaning up
            he  stands  alongside  30  or                                                                                       the mess.
            40 other drivers at a roll call                                                                                     Norihito said the "damage"
            before his 18-hour shift with                                                                                       occurs a couple of times a
            the  taxi  company  Nihon                                                                                           year and, under company
            Kotsu.                                                                                                              policy,  drivers  are  told  not
            He  drives  in  a  suit  and  tie.                                                                                  to collect fares from these
            White  gloves  are  optional.                                                                                       customers.   Why    create
            Drivers  are  not  allowed  to                                                                                      more problems?
            have  tattoos  or  wear  sun-  A Nihon Kotsu taxi passes through the Ginza shopping district of Tokyo on a rainy afternoon, Fri-  He  said  it's  not  easy  to
            glasses,  and  men  must  be   day, Nov. 22, 2019.                                                 Associated Press  avoid  the  heavy  drinkers.
            clean-shaven.  The  muster                                                                                          With  few  exceptions,  the
            wraps up as drivers — 95%  pics: poorly trained drivers,                                                            law requires drivers to pick
            are men — bow toward a  dilapidated cars, and slop-                                                                 up customers requesting a
            small Shinto shrine. And for  py  dress.  A  decade  ago                                                            ride.  Also,  it's  impossible  to
            good measure, they under-    in  Beijing,  the  government                                                          ignore a customer if a res-
            go  a  breathalyzer  before  published edicts for drivers                                                           ervation has been booked
            hitting the road.            to stop spitting, clean their                                                          ahead of time.
            "It's  something  like  the  taxis,  and  warned  about                                                             "We just can't do anything
            army," Norihito said.        eating on the job.                                                                     about it," he said. "Go back
            The  company  also  has  a  Customers also got lessons                                                              and clean it up, and that's
            booklet  for  drivers  with  77  on  waiting  in  line  and  not                                                    it."
            dos  and  don'ts:  how  and  jumping ahead.                                                                         Norihito  has  an  MBA  and
            when  to  speak  to  passen-  This  shouldn't  be  at  prob-                                                        speaks  English  fluently.  For
            gers,  taxi  sanitation  and  lem  at  next  year's  Tokyo                                                          drivers who don't, the com-
            opening doors for custom-    Olympics.                                                                              pany has a tablet to assist
            ers.  There's  even  one  in-  "Japanese  people  have  a                                                           with  language  and  a  ho-
            structing  drivers  to  keep  pride in this service," Norihi-  Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kot-  tline  for  translation  emer-
            both hands on the wheel.     to said in an interview with   su, one of the largest taxi companies in Japan, takes off his tie   gencies.
            Taxi  service  has  been  a  The  Associated  Press.  "In   after returning from his graveyard shift Wednesday, Oct. 9, 2019,   Drivers  can  earn  about
            concern  at  some  Olym-     the western notion, an indi-  in Tokyo.                               Associated Press  50,000-60,000 yen — about
                                                                                                                                $450-550 — in a typical 18-
                                                                                                   vidual  is  independent.  But  hour shift. Drivers keep half
                                                                                                   we  Japanese  are  homo-     and the company gets the
                                                                                                   geneous. We think of each  other half.
                                                                                                   other as part of the society,  Norihito   acknowledged
                                                                                                   the community. So the hon-   that  when  he  started  driv-
                                                                                                   or we get as a group is part  ing  three  years  ago  —  he
                                                                                                   of the honor each member  gave  up  a  "boring  office
                                                                                                   gets."                       job"  as  a  data  analyst  —
                                                                                                   Japan  is  not  perfect,  of  he  barely  knew  his  way
                                                                                                   course.  Commuters  often  around  Greater  Tokyo,  an
                                                                                                   push  to  get  on  crowded  area of about 35 million.
                                                                                                   subway  trains  or  bump  "I couldn't tell Shibuya from
                                                                                                   into  anonymous  strangers  Shinjuku,"  he  said,  despite
                                                                                                   on  the  sidewalk  without  passing  a  test  that  was
                                                                                                   apology.  Westerns  usually  much  less  rigorous  than,
                                                                                                   receive  great  service,  but  say,  London's  famous  "The
                                                                                                   some  other  non-Japanese  Knowledge"  exam  for  taxi
                                                                                                   complain they do not.        drivers.
                                                                                                   Japan has a low crime rate,  "There is no easy job in Ja-
                                                                                                   which is good news for taxis  pan,  but  relatively  I  feel
                                                                                                   drivers. But nocturnal Tokyo  comfortable doing this job,"
                                                                                                   presents  a  heavy-drinking  he said. "I  like  it  because  I
             Norihito Arima, a 33-year-old taxi driver working for Nihon Kotsu, one of the largest taxi compa-  culture that can — literally  can  do  it  by  myself.  Sure,
             nies in Japan, puts on white gloves in his taxi while getting ready to work Tuesday, Oct. 1, 2019,   — wind up in the laps of taxi  there  are  problems  but  I
             in Tokyo.                                                                             drivers who work overnight,  don't need to get involved
                                                                                  Associated Press  as Norihito does.           in office politics."q
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