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A32    FEATURE
                  Tuesday 27 March 2018
            Voguing revives as Paris minorities strike a political pose




            By THOMAS ADAMSON                                                                                                   to the dance's emergence
            PARIS  (AP)  —  In  garish                                                                                          in '80s New York — myriad
            makeup  and  dangerously                                                                                            minority groups, racism, ho-
            high  heels,  a  black  male                                                                                        mophobia  —  is  present  in
            dancer's outstretched arms                                                                                          today's Paris.
            aggressively slice the air in                                                                                       "Racism  is  still  here  ...  Of
            time  to  the  Paris  nightclub                                                                                     course,  it's  even  harder
            music  until  suddenly,  he                                                                                         being  gay  in  the  (French)
            drops "dead" on the floor.                                                                                          black  community  as  ev-
            Vogue,  the  '80s  dance                                                                                            eryone's  religious  and  ev-
            movement Madonna pop-                                                                                               eryone  takes  the  bible  by
            ularized in her hit 1990 song                                                                                       the  book,"  said  Ninja,  who
            of the same name, is expe-                                                                                          sported a sparkling gown.
            riencing a revival in France.                                                                                       Stephie Mizrahi — a dancer
            It's  not  just  a  flamboyant                                                                                      in the 1980s at "Le Palace,"
            pastime. For many minority                                                                                          France's  answer  to  Studio
            French  communities  who                                                                                            54 — said he was delighted
            feel  alienated  over  ten-                                                                                         to  see  the  voguing  scene
            sions  arising  from  divisive                                                                                      in  Paris  flourish.  It's  "a  safe-
            anti-gay  marriage  protests                                                                                        haven  for  LGBT  people  to
            and  the  anti-immigration                                                                                          express themselves and the
            National  Front,  it's  a  state-                                                                                   harshness  of  daily  life,"  he
            ment of defiance.                                                                                                   said.
            Many gay black and Arab                                                                                             Because many of the vogu-
            youths  —  especially  those   In this July 7, 2017, photo, voguing ballroom dancers perform on stage during a competition in   ing participants are not out
            from  Paris'  less  affluent   Paris.                                                              Associated Press   to their families, filming ac-
            and  religiously  conserva-                                                                                         cess to their events is strictly
            tive  suburbs  —  see  Vogue   identity  politics.  Madonna  community in the contests.  and there was an uptick in   limited for fear of reprisals.
            dance events as safe plac-   was criticized for her lyrics,  One  of  the  movement's  homophobic behavior.         Harshness  and  aggression
            es in which their racial and   which some said appropri-  founders,  Willi  Ninja,  who  The  rise  of  the  National   are  running  themes  in  the
            sexual identities can be ful-  ated  the  movement  for  starred  in  the  award-win-  Front, Marine Le Pen's right-  Vogue  lexicon.  There's  the
            ly expressed without fear of   the white population (even  ning  1990  documentary  wing  anti-immigrant  party     "death drop," a move that
            reprisals.                   though black dancers fea-    about  New  York  voguing,  that won a third of votes in   sees  the  dancer  collapse
            "Not  many  people  realize   tured in the video.)        "Paris is Burning," had want-  France's  presidential  run-  on the floor before quickly
            but  voguing,  it's  political.   The moves were first popu-  ed  to  bring  the  dance  to  off  last  year,  aggravated   bouncing  up  again.  And
            When  they  were  lining  the   larized  in  1980s  New  York  the  French  capital  before  many  young  black  Vogu-  the  jerky,  slicing  style  of
            streets in France with angry   during  exuberant  Vogue  he died in 2006 of an AIDS-   ers  who  already  felt  ostra-  Vogue  arm  movements
            anti-gay  marriage  signs,   Balls that served as a refuge  related illness.           cized.                       were reportedly inspired by
            the others were expressing   for  the  black  and  Latino  The  movement  pirouet-     French-born  black  drag     Bruce Lee's kung fu films.
            themselves  with  dance  on   LGBT community. At a time  ted  to  Paris  in  2012,  the  queen  Lasseindre  Ninja,   Fashion  and  celebrity  are
            the  Vogue  runway,"  said   when the AIDS epidemic in  year  tens  of  thousands  of  who had lived in New York    also touchstones.
            dancer Marion Tiger Melo-    the  city  fueled  homopho-  people  protested  across  before founding the French     The  Vogue  community  is
            dy.                          bia  and  racism  was  rife,  France against plans to le-  Vogue scene, feels that the   divided into global fashion-
            "The  increased  popularity   many found an accepting  galize  same-sex  marriage  perfect  storm  contributing     themed  houses,  or  teams,
            of  the  (far-right)  National                                                                                      that  dance  off  against
            Front  (party)  must  also                                                                                          each  other,  such  as  the
            have  had  an  impact,"  she                                                                                        House of Gaultier, House of
            added.                                                                                                              Chanel  and  the  House  of
            France  is  now  the  world's                                                                                       Lanvin.  And  for  proof  that
            biggest  voguing  hub  out-                                                                                         its popular appeal lives on,
            side of New York. Talented                                                                                          look no further than Beyon-
            young  dancers  and  drag                                                                                           cé, Rihanna, Azealia Banks
            queens  in  outlandish  cos-                                                                                        and Willow Smith, who have
            tumes  face  off  in  compe-                                                                                        all been influenced by the
            titions,  showing  off  moves                                                                                       vogue style of dance.
            inspired  by  the  poses  of                                                                                        Designer  Jean  Paul  Gault-
            fashion models in the pag-                                                                                          ier,  who  has  dressed  Ma-
            es of Vogue magazine.                                                                                               donna,  was  invited  as  a
            The  dance  first  hit  the                                                                                         guest  jury  member  at  one
            mainstream  with  Madon-                                                                                            Paris  Vogue  contest.  He
            na's  1990  song  and  video                                                                                        reminisced  about  going
            "Vogue," in which the sing-                                                                                         voguing  with  the  star  in
            er lists a roll call of all-white                                                                                   New York in 1990.
            Hollywood  icons  —  Mari-                                                                                          “To  have  been  there  at
            lyn  Monroe,  James  Dean,                                                                                          that  moment,  I’m  really
            Grace Kelly, and Bette Da-                                                                                          proud ... it was a small fam-
            vis — while calling on peo-                                                                                         ily  in  Brooklyn  and  New
            ple to "strike a pose."                                                                                             York  and  then  it  became
            But  the  original  move-                                                                                           global,”  Gaultier  told  The
            ment was neither white nor   In this July 7, 2017, photo, voguing ballroom dancers perform on stage during a competition in  AP. “I’m excited to see this
            mainstream  and  always      Paris.                                                                                 revival  that’s  modernized
            closely  linked  with  bold                                                                        Associated Press   and evolved.”q
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