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a14 people & arts
Wednesday 20 april 2022
J. Kenji López-Alt wants you to be a wok star in the kitchen
asides and some 200 dishes. ten the award-winning books “The Breath of
“I think there’s only one recipe that calls for a Wok” and “Stir Frying to the Sky’s Edge.” She
even turning on the oven. Everything else is just welcomes wok-loving reinforcements, worried
100% done in one pan on your stovetop,” he that the pot is at a crossroads, especially with
says. the rise of nonstick, inauthentic versions.
“The Wok” gives advice on the best oils to use, “I’m really grateful to Kenji for writing this book
how to boil eggs, and how to approach stews because he can appeal to a much broader
and curries. It knocks down some myths, like the and younger audience than I can reach,” she
one that says only day-old rice makes good says. “It means more woks get homes, more
fried rice. There’s even a section on making people are curious, and more people are ap-
soups in a wok, including egg drop, wonton, preciative of the fact that this pan is so special
and hot and sour. and so unique.” The wok’s flared shape gives
Lopez-Alt advises home chefs to get what he chefs a better angle to manipulate food than
has — a 14-inch, flat-bottomed, carbon-steel vertical walls on traditional pots, and it also re-
wok, and says if you pay more than $50, you’re duces splatter. Its sides can be used to either
probably being overcharged. He bought his at protect food from the heat at the center or al-
a Target in the early 2000s. ternatively be a place that really heats up and
That wok has adapted to each stage in his life. provides a sizzle.
He bought it as a college student living with López-Alt had written in the kitchen-equipment
roommates, kept using it after moving in with his chapter of “The Food Lab” that the wok was his
soon-to-be wife, and continues to cook with it go-to pan, but the final book never had recipes
now as a father. He says he pulls out the wok or advice because that section was edited out
three or four times a week. for space. So when he started to tackle a sec-
This cover image released by W. W. Norton & López-Alt is also the author of “The Food Lab: ond volume of “The Food Lab,” he started by
Company shows “The Wok: Recipes and Techniques” Better Homecooking Through Science,” a text- revisiting the wok chapter and began expand-
by J. Kenji López-Alt. book-like cookbook with roots in scientific rea- ing it. Then it took on a life of its own.
Associated Press
son. The new book has similar rigorous testing, “I was like 200 pages in and I wasn’t done with
By MARK KENNEDY with fantastic detours into when to rinse rice, stir-fries. So it felt like, ‘Hey, this is something I’m
AP Entertainment Writer whether to use MSG, how to shop for shrimp passionate about and I’ve found useful in my
NEW YORK (AP) — Chef and food writer J. Kenji and how different types of noodles behave. life, so maybe I should write a whole book and
López-Alt suspects there’s something in your “I find learning things is a lot easier when I learn then other people will also find it useful,” he
kitchen that you’re not using near enough — the underlying principles behind them. And so says.
the wok. The Asian deep-bottomed pot is his I learned why I’m doing something as well as He dispels some false impressions of wok cook-
versatile go-to cooking tool for everything from how,” he said. ing: It’s not true, he says, that you need jet
Korean-style pancakes to bacon and egg fried López-Alt compares following recipes in a flame, high-powered restaurant-style burners to
rice. “Obviously people know them for stir fries,” cookbook to asking directions on your phone cook properly with a wok.
he says. “But they’re also great for simmering, from Siri — you get from point A to point B, but “I go to Peter Luger’s in New York, right? And
great for braising, great for steaming. I think learn nothing about the neighborhoods or how they have a steak that they cook under a
they’re the best tool for both steaming and they connect. 1,600-degree broiler. And it’s like a certain ex-
deep frying. You can make rice. There’s just a “I think knowing techniques and science is perience, right? I’m not expecting to be able
huge, huge amount of stuff you can do in this what sort of gives me the confidence to stray to go home and cook the steak the exact same
one pan.” from recipes and know that I’m still not going to way,” he says.
After spending much of the pandemic tinker- get lost and (will) end up with something edible “That’s just like a very particular restaurant style
ing, López-Alt is offering his wisdom in “The Wok: and hopefully delicious,” he says. of cooking a steak. But that doesn’t mean there
Recipes and Techniques” from W.W. Norton & His new book has the blessing of Grace Young, aren’t many other ways I can cook steak at
Company, a book with handy tips, fascinating a fierce advocate of the wok, who has writ- home that are delicious.”q
Actor Ezra Miller arrested again on
Hawaii’s Big Island
By JENNIFER SINCO KELLE- a half-inch cut on her fore- Miller was aggravated by a
HER head, police said. rendition of the Lady Gaga
Associated Press Miller, described by police and Bradley Cooper bal-
HONOLULU (AP) — Ezra as a 29-year-old visitor from lad “Shallow,” Hawaii Po-
Miller was arrested on sus- Vermont, was arrested dur- lice Assistant Chief Kenneth
picion of assault Tuesday, ing a traffic stop and re- Quiocho said.
the second time the actor leased pending further in- Miller is also scheduled to
known for playing the Flash vestigation. be arraigned Tuesday in a
in “Justice League” films It’s unclear how Miller’s ar- separate traffic case. Po-
has been arrested in Ha- rest affects an arraignment lice were called to a dis-
waii in recent weeks. scheduled for later Tuesday pute in downtown Hilo last Actor Ezra Miller poses for photographers upon arrival at the
Miller became irate after for the actor’s arrest last month where Miller was premiere of the film “Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald,”
being asked to leave a get month at a Big Island kara- uncooperative, refused at a central London cinema, Tuesday, Nov. 13, 2018.
Associated Press
together a Big Island home oke bar. Miller was charged to leave the area and ob-
and threw a chair, hitting with harassment and disor- structed a sidewalk, Quio- Attorney Francis Alcain his client “has various time
a woman in the forehead, derly conduct after police cho said. had requested Tuesday’s sensitive work obligations
said a news release from said the actor grabbed a Miller’s attorney didn’t im- court hearing, previously in California and/or New
the Hawaii Police Depart- mic from a singing woman mediately return a mes- scheduled for next week, York,” and needs an ear-
ment. and lunged at a man play- sage seeking comment on be moved up. lier hearing “to resolve this
The woman was treated for ing darts. the latest arrest. Alcain said in a court filing matter.”q