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a14   people & arts
                  Wednesday 20 april 2022
            J. Kenji López-Alt wants you to be a wok star in the kitchen




                                                            asides and some 200 dishes.                     ten  the  award-winning  books  “The  Breath  of
                                                            “I  think  there’s  only  one  recipe  that  calls  for  a Wok” and “Stir Frying to the Sky’s Edge.” She
                                                            even turning on the oven. Everything else is just  welcomes  wok-loving  reinforcements,  worried
                                                            100%  done  in  one  pan  on  your  stovetop,”  he  that the pot is at a crossroads, especially with
                                                            says.                                           the rise of nonstick, inauthentic versions.
                                                            “The Wok” gives advice on the best oils to use,  “I’m really grateful to Kenji for writing this book
                                                            how to boil eggs, and how to approach stews  because  he  can  appeal  to  a  much  broader
                                                            and curries. It knocks down some myths, like the  and younger audience than I can reach,” she
                                                            one  that  says  only  day-old  rice  makes  good  says.  “It  means  more  woks  get  homes,  more
                                                            fried  rice.  There’s  even  a  section  on  making  people are curious, and more people are ap-
                                                            soups  in  a  wok,  including  egg  drop,  wonton,  preciative of the fact that this pan is so special
                                                            and hot and sour.                               and  so  unique.” The wok’s  flared shape  gives
                                                            Lopez-Alt advises home chefs to get what he  chefs a better angle to manipulate food than
                                                            has  —  a  14-inch,  flat-bottomed,  carbon-steel  vertical walls on traditional pots, and it also re-
                                                            wok, and says if you pay more than $50, you’re  duces splatter. Its sides can be used to either
                                                            probably being overcharged. He bought his at  protect food from the heat at the center or al-
                                                            a Target in the early 2000s.                    ternatively be a place that really heats up and
                                                            That wok has adapted to each stage in his life.  provides a sizzle.
                                                            He  bought  it  as  a  college  student  living  with  López-Alt had written in the kitchen-equipment
                                                            roommates, kept using it after moving in with his  chapter of “The Food Lab” that the wok was his
                                                            soon-to-be wife, and continues to cook with it  go-to pan, but the final book never had recipes
                                                            now as a father. He says he pulls out the wok  or advice because that section was edited out
                                                            three or four times a week.                     for space. So when he started to tackle a sec-
            This  cover  image  released  by  W.  W.  Norton  &   López-Alt is also the author of “The Food Lab:  ond volume of “The Food Lab,” he started by
            Company shows “The Wok: Recipes and Techniques”   Better Homecooking Through Science,” a text-  revisiting the wok chapter and began expand-
            by J. Kenji López-Alt.                          book-like cookbook with roots in scientific rea-  ing it. Then it took on a life of its own.
                                           Associated Press
                                                            son. The new book has similar rigorous testing,  “I was like 200 pages in and I wasn’t done with
            By MARK KENNEDY                                 with  fantastic  detours  into  when  to  rinse  rice,  stir-fries. So it felt like, ‘Hey, this is something I’m
            AP Entertainment Writer                         whether  to  use  MSG,  how  to  shop  for  shrimp  passionate about and I’ve found useful in my
            NEW YORK (AP) — Chef and food writer J. Kenji  and how different types of noodles behave.       life, so maybe I should write a whole book and
            López-Alt  suspects  there’s  something  in  your  “I find learning things is a lot easier when I learn  then  other  people  will  also  find  it  useful,”  he
            kitchen  that  you’re  not  using  near  enough  —  the underlying principles behind them. And so  says.
            the  wok.  The  Asian  deep-bottomed  pot  is  his  I  learned  why  I’m  doing  something as  well  as  He dispels some false impressions of wok cook-
            versatile go-to cooking tool for everything from  how,” he said.                                ing:  It’s  not  true,  he  says,  that  you  need  jet
            Korean-style pancakes to bacon and egg fried  López-Alt  compares  following  recipes  in  a  flame, high-powered restaurant-style burners to
            rice. “Obviously people know them for stir fries,”  cookbook  to  asking  directions  on  your  phone  cook properly with a wok.
            he says. “But they’re also great for simmering,  from Siri — you get from point A to point B, but  “I go to Peter Luger’s in New York, right? And
            great  for  braising,  great  for  steaming.  I  think  learn nothing about the neighborhoods or how  they  have  a  steak  that  they  cook  under  a
            they’re  the  best  tool  for  both  steaming  and  they connect.                               1,600-degree broiler. And it’s like a certain ex-
            deep frying. You can make rice. There’s just a  “I  think  knowing  techniques  and  science  is  perience, right? I’m not expecting to be able
            huge, huge amount of stuff you can do in this  what sort of gives me the confidence to stray  to go home and cook the steak the exact same
            one pan.”                                       from recipes and know that I’m still not going to  way,” he says.
            After  spending  much  of  the  pandemic  tinker-  get lost and (will) end up with something edible  “That’s just like a very particular restaurant style
            ing, López-Alt is offering his wisdom in “The Wok:  and hopefully delicious,” he says.          of cooking a steak. But that doesn’t mean there
            Recipes and Techniques” from W.W. Norton &  His new book has the blessing of Grace Young,  aren’t  many  other  ways  I  can  cook  steak  at
            Company, a book with handy tips, fascinating  a  fierce  advocate  of  the  wok,  who  has  writ-  home that are delicious.”q

            Actor Ezra Miller arrested again on


            Hawaii’s Big Island


            By  JENNIFER  SINCO  KELLE-  a half-inch cut on her fore-  Miller was aggravated by a
            HER                          head, police said.           rendition of the Lady Gaga
            Associated Press             Miller,  described  by  police  and  Bradley  Cooper  bal-
            HONOLULU  (AP)  —  Ezra  as a 29-year-old visitor from  lad  “Shallow,”  Hawaii  Po-
            Miller  was  arrested  on  sus-  Vermont, was arrested dur-  lice Assistant Chief Kenneth
            picion  of  assault  Tuesday,  ing  a  traffic  stop  and  re-  Quiocho said.
            the second time the actor  leased  pending  further  in-  Miller  is  also  scheduled  to
            known for playing the Flash  vestigation.                 be arraigned Tuesday in a
            in  “Justice  League”  films  It’s unclear how Miller’s ar-  separate  traffic  case.  Po-
            has  been  arrested  in  Ha-  rest affects an arraignment  lice  were  called  to  a  dis-
            waii in recent weeks.        scheduled for later Tuesday  pute in downtown Hilo last   Actor  Ezra  Miller  poses  for  photographers  upon  arrival  at  the
            Miller  became  irate  after  for  the  actor’s  arrest  last  month  where  Miller  was   premiere of the film “Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald,”
            being asked to leave a get  month at a Big Island kara-   uncooperative,     refused   at a central London cinema, Tuesday, Nov. 13, 2018.
                                                                                                                                           Associated Press
            together a Big Island home  oke bar. Miller was charged  to leave the area and ob-
            and  threw  a  chair,  hitting  with harassment and disor-  structed  a  sidewalk,  Quio-  Attorney   Francis   Alcain  his client “has various time
            a woman in the forehead,  derly  conduct  after  police  cho said.                     had  requested  Tuesday’s  sensitive  work  obligations
            said  a  news  release  from  said  the  actor  grabbed  a  Miller’s  attorney  didn’t  im-  court  hearing,  previously  in  California  and/or  New
            the  Hawaii  Police  Depart-  mic from a singing woman  mediately  return  a  mes-     scheduled  for  next  week,  York,”  and  needs  an  ear-
            ment.                        and lunged at a man play-    sage seeking comment on  be moved up.                     lier  hearing “to resolve  this
            The woman was treated for  ing darts.                     the latest arrest.           Alcain said in a court filing  matter.”q
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