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PEOPLE & ARTS Monday 2 March 2020
Celine gets refined as Balmain celebrates diversity in Paris

By THOMAS ADAMSON FECTED BY CORONA FEARS
AP Fashion Writer Unlike in Milan, on the face
PARIS (AP) — Usher un- of things, the anxieties over
leashed a photographer's the new coronavirus have
battle at Balmain on Fri- been imperceptible at
day, as he appeared at Paris Fashion Week — apart
Paris Fashion Week along- from the appearance of
side towering model Cindy an occasional respiratory
Bruna. The designer, Olivier mask at shows. But there
Rousteing said of the typi- has been a few jitters.
cally glamazon-filled fash- Paris' fashion federation
ion collection, that it was a said earlier this week that
celebration of his personal six Chinese brands can-
journey. Celine, mean- celed their planned events
while, served up a subtle in Paris because of the out-
homage to the 1970's. break . The absences — of
Here are some highlights Masha Ma, Shiatzy Chen,
of ready-to-wear shows for Uma Wang, Jarel Zhang,
fall-winter 2020. Calvin Luo and Maison Mai
BALMAIN CELEBRATES DI- — produced gaps during
VERSITY AND TRADITIONS some days' normally back-
An orphan from posh Bor- to-back calendar shows.
deaux, where doors were The federation said, in a
closed to him because of Models wear creations for the Isabel Marant fashion collection during Women's fashion week Fall/ statement, that it will try to
his race, Rousteing said he Winter 2020/21 presented in Paris, Thursday, Feb. 27, 2020. Associated Press promote the brands on-
explored how those same line instead and "will make
doors suddenly flung open African-style capes, and wrong with the collection, the silhouette. available all its communi-
when he became a top equestrian leather waders which strayed at times into The statement piece of a cations platforms to allow
designer in Paris. looked like stripper boots. overkill. cascading layered bohe- these brands to share the
"I learned from an early age Rousteing's passion was CELINE'S SUBTLE 70s mian skirt that sparkled in work they had planned to
that certain classes, clubs evident in the pure exuber- Designer Hedi Slimane put black, magenta, artichoke present both in France and
and cliques were closed ance. The show opening on a refined collection for and coral, could have overseas."
off to someone who looked included a dozen models Celine that was notable for been extreme, but was Added to that, LVMH sud-
like me," he said. in exactly the same look its — relative — understate- handled with refinement. denly canceled Thursday's
"Many of the codes of a — a chic double-breasted ment. It was paired with a simple cocktail reception to cele-
world that was once be- wool coat with the house Slimane's touchstone for black bolero-style jacket brate its 2020 LVMH Prize for
yond my reach are key DNA of six gold buttons. It several seasons, the air of that allowed the dominant Young Fashion Designers, in
parts of this collection... evoked the mood of an ur- the on-trend 1970's, was garment breathing space. an email to AP. The event
(that) adapts those sym- ban gang. captured in every of the Giant fur coats were de- was canceled on the same
bols of upper-class exclu- There were plenty of hits. A 111 — yes, 111 — salable livered in black, to merge day that France reported a
sion and twists them." loose pastel brown leather looks.Oversize black floppy with the model's pants and French citizen on its soil had
In that vein, in the display, pantsuit hybrid subverted hats followed statement create a visual continuity. died from COVID-19. LVMH
he delivered a street-cred the cinched-waist silhou- talisman necklaces, se- While, culottes fluttered did not respond to an email
makeover to traditional ette of house founder Pierre quined dresses with bow gently. asking if there was any cor-
styles — such as silk scarf Balmain's Jolie Madame collars, ruffles on shirts and, The bourgeois codes of relation. The presentation
patterns, classic equestrian look. Instead of a belt there of course, that decade's the storied house of Celine of the designer's work, it
looks and the signature har- was a clutch bag on its staple of brown corduroy seem to be having a posi- said, was still going on Fri-
lequin crisscross patterns — front, resembling a fanny pants. They were all styles tive effect on Slimane, the day.
ones executed in cognacs pack. With its thick leather we've seen before on the once-wild child of fashion. On Friday, Chanel said its
and intense blues on rich ruffles, it was surely the col- Slimane-Celine runway. They have somehow com- U.S. office is not traveling
fabrics such as jersey. lection's best look. Yet this season was marked plemented his love of ex- to Paris Fashion Week out
The bourgeois harlequin Alas, Rousteing's exuber- by an added refinement — cess, by slightly reining it in. of precautions over the
motif adorned billowing ance was also what was with a perfect balance to PARIS FASHION WEEK AF- virus.q

Iranian director wins prize at Berlin festival in absentia

Associated Press with personal freedom un- many's dpa news agency
FRANKFURT, Germany (AP) der tyranny. reported that Rasoulof's
— Iranian director Moham- The Berlin festival jury led by daughter, Baran, accept-
mad Rasoulof's "There Is No actor Jeremy Irons chose ed the Golden Bear award
Evil" won the Golden Bear the film over 17 others com- on his behalf.
prize Saturday for best pic- peting for the prize, includ- The Silver Bear for best ac-
ture at the Berlin Film Festi- ing Sally Potter's "The Road tress went to Paul Beer for
val. Rasoulof wasn't there Not Taken," a remake of her performance in "Un-
to accept the award due "Berlin Alexanderplatz," and dine" and the Silver Bear
to a travel ban imposed on "Siberia," starring Willem Da- for best actor to Elio Ger-
him by Iranian authorities. foe and Dounia Sichov. mano for his role in "Hidden
"There Is No Evil" tells four Organizers left an empty Away." Best screenplay
stories loosely connected chair and name sign for went to the D'Innocenzo Benoit Delepine holds the Silver Bear 70th Berlinale award for
to the use of the death Rasoulof at the news con- brothers, Damiano and Fa- the film 'Delete History' after the award ceremony at the 70th
International Berlinale Film Festival in Berlin, Germany.
penalty in Iran and dealing ference for his entry. Ger- bio, for "Bad Tales."q Associated Press