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LOCAL Thursday 19 sepTember 2024
The Aruban Cunukero
From past to present
(Oranjestad)—Aruba’s culture 4. Lastly you have the “Run-
consists of rich historical traditions away Peasantries”, usually
that make up the Aruban identity comprised of runaway slaves
and lifestyle. However, the life of who acquired farming tools
the cunukero (farmer) is perhaps and cattle through stealing
the most important aspect of our or through secret exchanges
culture, in a sense representing to with other slaves from different
locals the true essence of the Aru- plantations.
ban.
However, the Aruban cunukeros
Historically, cunucus (farms) played back then are hard to place, and ther once affiliated with the WIC or get more people to have land on
a huge role in the early social and their history may explain why. were colonists who settled on the the island, the climate never really
economic development of Aruba, island to try their luck at farming. In allowed real profit from farming.
and its relevance dates back to From 1636 (beginning of Dutch 1767, there were about 120 hous- Because of the climate, Aruban
the early days of the colonization colonization era) to before the oil es/cunucus on the island. farmers in general could not keep
era. Upon being discovered by industry in 1924, Aruba’s popula- large quantities of livestock. At a
Spanish conquistadors in the late tion consisted of mostly farmers. These Aruban farmers were also certain point toward the end of
15th century, Aruba was used pri- These farmers were mostly indig- limited to the amount of cattle the 18th century, the climate got
marily as a ranch, housing horses enous and were characterized as they could keep. Most kept goats so bad that many farmers decided
and cattle brought from Europe. peasants. They weren’t allowed to as cattle, as only those who were to leave the island for a while.
During the Dutch colonization era participate in trading, but instead affiliated with the WIC could keep
where the West Indian Company were granted a piece of land to (more) sheep. Of the 76 goat herd- For this reason, the farming econ-
(WIC) dominated the economic live off of. However, in exchange ers on the island, about 45 of them omy on the island remained small.
sphere on the island, using the land for this grant, these indigenous had less than 30 goats, and only 7 As the years went by and people
to set up cattle farms and ranches farmers were obligated to work for of them had more than 60 goats. noticed that these farms could
remained popular. the WIC, doing daily tasks such as not really produce any sustainable
taking care of or hunting cattle— It wasn’t until the WIC was defunct profit, farmers kept their small piece
Anthropologist Sidney Mintz divid- large majority of which were des- in late 18th century that these of land just to live off of. This is why
ed Caribbean farmers back in four tined for Curacao, clean water farmers were able to obtain more the Aruban cunukeros only played
categories: tanks and chop wood, among freedom as cunukeros. After 1824, a very tiny role into the plantation
1. The “squatters”, who were other things. the government gave these farm- economy.
mostly comprised of illegal and ers official permission to keep live-
poor colonists, runaway slaves As much as these farmers were giv- stock, and the obligations once In modern Aruba, cunucus and cu-
and deserters who took advan- en to opportunity to live “free” with placed on them were officially dis- nukeros still exist on the island, for-
tage of the Spanish’s weak su- a plot of land, their exclusion from carded. tunately with more freedom and
pervision on Caribbean islands the trading and business world, as more opportunity to tap into the
like Cuba and the DR; well as being deprived the chance Because of the dry climate in Aru- agricultural market. These farm-
2. Then you have “Early Yeo- to become real property and cat- ba, growing food for commercial ers usually sell their produce on a
men”, who were legal farmers tle owners, made them a unique purposes was not popular. The smaller scale, like during farmers’
who came to the west under group among Caribbean farmers focus was mainly on cattle herd- market events and other types of
contract. Once their contract at the time. ing and taking care of livestock. (holiday) events.
expired, they were given a plot However, livestock need food to
of land for independent use; The WIC placed a lot of restrictions survive, and when Aruba experi- Source: “Arubaans Akkoord: Op-
3. Proto-Peasants were planta- on these indigenous farmers—a enced its duper dry climate, many stellen over Aruba van voor de
tion slaves who were allowed method to safeguard their cattle farmers would see a big loss in their komst van de olieindustrie (Aruban
to have a small piece of land deposit on the island. The indige- livestock, and hence profit. Accord: Essays on Aruba Before
to grow food for their own con- nous farmers were mostly granted the Arrival of the Oil Industry)” by
sumption. This was to curb the less than 7 acres of land. Those Although the WIC at one point did Alofs, Luc; Rutgers, Wim; Coomans,
cost of living on the plantations; who owned bigger land were ei- try to come up with an initiative to Henny E. red.q
Dining in? Try making a local favorite
How to make “pan bati”
per easy meal that adults and children will both stir until well mixed. Then add the milk and beat
enjoy. Here’s how to make it! until reached a pancake-like consistency. If
more moister is needed, add some water until
Ingredients: reached desired consistency.
2 cups of all purpose flour
1 cup grams of fine cornmeal (we recommend In a hot pan with oil, pour in enough batter to
the Harina PAN brand) cover the bottom of the pan. Just like pancakes,
2 tbsp baking powder flip the pan bati when one side turns golden
1 1/3 cup of milk brown. When your pan bati is ready, place on
1 pinch of salt a plate and cover with a clean kitchen towel.
2 tbsp of granulated sugar
(Oranjestad)—If you’re ever up for an Aruban Oil for cooking Traditionally, pan bati is cut in triangle pieces,
snack, try making another Aruban classic ap- and is often eaten as a side dish with soup, fried
petizer called Pan Bati. Similar to a pancake Instructions: fish or stews. However, it is also casually enjoyed
both in appearance and cooking, this is a su- Add all the dry ingredients in a bowl first, and with some butter and cheese on top!q