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                                                                                                           LOCAL Thursday 19 sepTember 2024
            The Aruban Cunukero

            From past to present



            (Oranjestad)—Aruba’s       culture  4.  Lastly  you  have  the  “Run-
            consists of rich historical traditions   away   Peasantries”,   usually
            that  make  up  the  Aruban  identity   comprised  of  runaway  slaves
            and  lifestyle.  However,  the  life  of   who  acquired  farming  tools
            the  cunukero  (farmer)  is  perhaps    and  cattle  through  stealing
            the  most  important  aspect  of  our   or  through  secret  exchanges
            culture, in a sense representing to     with other slaves from different
            locals the true essence of the Aru-     plantations.
            ban.
                                                However,  the  Aruban  cunukeros
            Historically, cunucus (farms) played  back then are hard to place, and   ther once affiliated with the WIC or  get more people to have land on
            a huge role in the early social and  their history may explain why.     were colonists who settled on the  the island, the climate never really
            economic development of Aruba,                                          island to try their luck at farming. In  allowed  real  profit  from  farming.
            and  its  relevance  dates  back  to  From  1636  (beginning  of  Dutch   1767, there were about 120 hous-  Because  of  the  climate,  Aruban
            the early days of the colonization  colonization era) to before the oil   es/cunucus on the island.         farmers in general could not keep
            era.  Upon  being  discovered  by  industry  in  1924,  Aruba’s  popula-                                    large  quantities  of  livestock.  At  a
            Spanish  conquistadors  in  the  late  tion  consisted  of  mostly  farmers.   These  Aruban  farmers  were  also  certain  point  toward  the  end  of
            15th century, Aruba was used pri-   These  farmers  were  mostly  indig-  limited  to  the  amount  of  cattle  the  18th  century,  the  climate  got
            marily  as  a  ranch,  housing  horses  enous and were characterized as   they could keep. Most kept goats  so bad that many farmers decided
            and  cattle  brought  from  Europe.  peasants. They weren’t allowed to   as cattle, as only those who were  to leave the island for a while.
            During the Dutch colonization era  participate in trading, but instead   affiliated with the WIC could keep
            where  the  West  Indian  Company  were  granted  a  piece  of  land  to   (more) sheep. Of the 76 goat herd-  For this reason, the farming econ-
            (WIC)  dominated  the  economic  live  off  of.  However,  in  exchange   ers on the island, about 45 of them  omy on the island remained small.
            sphere on the island, using the land  for  this  grant,  these  indigenous   had less than 30 goats, and only 7  As the years went by and people
            to set up cattle farms and ranches  farmers were obligated to work for   of them had more than 60 goats.    noticed  that  these  farms  could
            remained popular.                   the WIC, doing daily tasks such as                                      not really produce any sustainable
                                                taking care of or hunting cattle—   It wasn’t until the WIC was defunct  profit, farmers kept their small piece
            Anthropologist  Sidney  Mintz  divid-  large majority of which were des-  in  late  18th  century  that  these  of land just to live off of. This is why
            ed Caribbean farmers back in four  tined  for  Curacao,  clean  water   farmers were able to obtain more  the Aruban cunukeros only played
            categories:                         tanks  and  chop  wood,  among      freedom as cunukeros. After 1824,  a very tiny role into the plantation
            1.  The  “squatters”,  who  were  other things.                         the government gave these farm-     economy.
                mostly comprised of illegal and                                     ers official permission to keep live-
                poor colonists, runaway slaves  As much as these farmers were giv-  stock,  and  the  obligations  once  In modern Aruba, cunucus and cu-
                and deserters who took advan-   en to opportunity to live “free” with   placed on them were officially dis-  nukeros still exist on the island, for-
                tage of the Spanish’s weak su-  a plot of land, their exclusion from   carded.                          tunately  with  more  freedom  and
                pervision on Caribbean islands  the trading and business world, as                                      more  opportunity  to  tap  into  the
                like Cuba and the DR;           well as being deprived the chance   Because of the dry climate in Aru-  agricultural  market.  These  farm-
            2.  Then  you  have  “Early  Yeo-   to become real property and cat-    ba,  growing  food  for  commercial  ers usually sell their produce on a
                men”, who were legal farmers  tle  owners,  made  them  a  unique   purposes  was  not  popular.  The  smaller  scale,  like  during  farmers’
                who  came  to  the  west  under  group  among  Caribbean  farmers   focus  was  mainly  on  cattle  herd-  market events and other types of
                contract.  Once  their  contract  at the time.                      ing  and  taking  care  of  livestock.  (holiday) events.
                expired, they were given a plot                                     However,  livestock  need  food  to
                of land for independent use;    The WIC placed a lot of restrictions   survive,  and  when  Aruba  experi-  Source:  “Arubaans  Akkoord:  Op-
            3.  Proto-Peasants  were  planta-   on  these  indigenous  farmers—a    enced its duper dry climate, many  stellen  over  Aruba  van  voor  de
                tion  slaves  who  were  allowed  method  to  safeguard  their  cattle   farmers would see a big loss in their  komst van de olieindustrie (Aruban
                to have a small piece of land  deposit  on  the  island.  The  indige-  livestock, and hence profit.    Accord:  Essays  on  Aruba  Before
                to grow food for their own con-  nous farmers were mostly granted                                       the  Arrival  of  the  Oil  Industry)”  by
                sumption. This was to curb the  less  than  7  acres  of  land.  Those   Although the WIC at one point did  Alofs, Luc; Rutgers, Wim; Coomans,
                cost of living on the plantations;  who  owned  bigger  land  were  ei-  try to come up with an initiative to  Henny E. red.q



                                                            Dining in? Try making a local favorite

                                                            How to make “pan bati”



                                                            per easy meal that adults and children will both  stir until well mixed. Then add the milk and beat
                                                            enjoy. Here’s how to make it!                   until  reached  a  pancake-like  consistency.  If
                                                                                                            more moister is needed, add some water until
                                                            Ingredients:                                    reached desired consistency.
                                                            2 cups of all purpose flour
                                                            1 cup grams of fine cornmeal (we recommend  In a hot pan with oil, pour in enough batter to
                                                            the Harina PAN brand)                           cover the bottom of the pan. Just like pancakes,
                                                            2 tbsp baking powder                            flip  the  pan  bati  when  one  side  turns  golden
                                                            1 1/3 cup of milk                               brown. When your pan bati is ready, place on
                                                            1 pinch of salt                                 a plate and cover with a clean kitchen towel.
                                                            2 tbsp of granulated sugar
            (Oranjestad)—If you’re ever up for an Aruban  Oil for cooking                                   Traditionally, pan bati is cut in triangle pieces,
            snack, try making another Aruban classic ap-                                                    and is often eaten as a side dish with soup, fried
            petizer  called  Pan  Bati.  Similar  to  a  pancake  Instructions:                             fish or stews. However, it is also casually enjoyed
            both in appearance and cooking, this is a su-   Add all the dry ingredients in a bowl first, and  with some butter and cheese on top!q
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