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A32    FEATURE
                  Friday 20 december 2019
            How do you save endangered gorillas? With lots of human help




            By CHRISTINA LARSON                                                                                                 40%  of  the  forest  already
            Associated Press                                                                                                    was cleared for agriculture
            KINIGI,  Rwanda  (AP)  —                                                                                            in the early 1970s.
            Deep  in  the  rainforest  of                                                                                       "With tourism, the tension is
            Volcanoes  National  Park,                                                                                          always  not  to  overexploit,"
            a  23-year-old  female  go-                                                                                         says Dirck Byler, great ape
            rilla named Kurudi feeds on                                                                                         conservation  director  at
            a stand of wild celery. She                                                                                         the  nonprofit  Global  Wild-
            bends the green stalks and,                                                                                         life  Conservation,  which  is
            with  long  careful  fingers,                                                                                       not involved in the Rwanda
            peels  off  the  exterior  skin                                                                                     gorilla project. "But in Rwan-
            to expose the succulent in-                                                                                         da,  so  far  they're  careful,
            side.                                                                                                               and it's working."
            Biologist  Jean  Paul  Hirwa                                                                                        The  idea  of  using  tourism
            notes her meal on his tab-                                                                                          to  help  fund  conservation
            let  computer  as  he  peers                                                                                        was contentious when con-
            out  from  behind  a  nearby                                                                                        servationists Bill Weber and
            stand of stinging nettles.                                                                                          Amy Vedder first proposed
            The  large  adult  male  sit-                                                                                       it  while  living  in  Rwanda
            ting  next  to  her,  known  as                                                                                     during  the  1970s  and  '80s.
            a  silverback,  looks  at  him                                                                                      Fossey  herself  was  skepti-
            quizzically.  Hirwa  makes  a   In this Sept. 2, 2019 photo, a silverback mountain gorilla named Segasira walks in the Volcanoes   cal, but the pair persisted.
                                         National Park, Rwanda.
            low hum — "ahh-mmm" —                                                                              Associated Press  "The wonder of the gorillas'
            imitating  the  gorillas'  usual                                                                                    lives, their curiosity, their so-
            sound of reassurance.        into cropland.               and insects, and live in fair-  team  goes  into  the  field  cial  interactions  —  we  felt
            "I'm here," Hirwa is trying to  Instead  of  disappearing,  ly  stable,  extended  family  to  address  a  gorilla  emer-  that's something that could
            say.  "It's  OK.  No  reason  to  the  number  of  mountain  groups.  Their  strength  and  gency, they must carry ev-  be  accessible  to  others,
            worry."                      gorillas  —  a  subspecies  of  chest-thumping   displays  erything  they  might  need  through  careful  tourism,"
            Hirwa  and  the  two  great  eastern gorillas — has risen  are  generally  reserved  for  in  equipment  bags  weigh-  Vedder says.
            apes  are  all  part  of  the  from 680 a decade ago to  contests  between  male  ri-  ing up to 100 pounds — in-   Figuring out the balance of
            world's     longest-running  just over 1,000 today. Their  vals.                       cluding portable X-ray ma-   how  many  people  could
            gorilla  study  —  a  project  population is split between  Every  week,  scientists  like  chines. Schaller conducted  visit the forest, and for how
            begun  in  1967  by  famed  two regions, including mist-  Hirwa,  who  works  for  the  the  first  detailed  studies  long,  was  a  delicate  pro-
            American      primatologist  covered  defunct  volca-     nonprofit     conservation  of  mountain  gorillas  in  the  cess of trial and error, We-
            Dian Fossey.                 noes  within  Congo,  Ugan-  group the Dian Fossey Go-    1950s  and  early  '60s.  He  ber says.
            Yet  Fossey  herself,  who  da and Rwanda — one of  rilla  Fund,  gather  data  as  also was the first to discover  In 2005, the Rwandan gov-
            died  in  1985,  would  likely  Africa's  smallest  and  most  part  of  long-term  behav-  that wild gorillas could, over  ernment  adopted  a  mod-
            be surprised any mountain  densely  populated  coun-      ioral research.              time, become comfortable  el  to  steer  5%  of  tourism
            gorillas are still left to study.  tries.                 If they see any health prob-  with  periodic  human  pres-  revenue  from  Volcanoes
            Alarmed  by  rising  rates  of  "The  population  of  moun-  lems  in  the  gorillas,  they  ence, a boon to research-  National  Park  to  build  in-
            poaching  and  deforesta-    tain  gorillas  is  still  vulnera-  inform  the  staff  at  Gorillas  ers and, later, tourists.  frastructure  in  surrounding
            tion  in  central  Africa,  she  ble," says George Schaller,  Doctors, a nongovernmen-  Today,  highly  regulated  villages,  including  schools
            predicted    the    species  a  renowned  biologist  and  tal  group  whose  veterinar-  tour  groups  hike  in  the  and  health  clinics.  Two
            could go extinct by 2000.    gorilla  expert.  "But  their  ians work in the forest. The  Rwandan   rainforest   to  years  ago,  the  share  was
            Instead,  a  concerted  and  numbers are now growing,  vets  monitor  wounds  and  watch gorillas.                  raised to 10%.
            sustained     conservation  and that's remarkable."       signs  of  respiratory  infec-  Ticket revenue pays for op-  To  date,  about  $2  million
            campaign     has   averted  Once depicted in legends  tions,  but  intervene  only  erating  costs  and  outstrips  has  gone  into  funding  vil-
            the  worst  and  given  a  and  films  like  "King  Kong"  sparingly.  "Our  hospital  is  what  might  have  been  lage  projects,  chief  park
            second  chance  to  these  as  fearsome  beasts,  goril-  the forest," says Jean Bosco  made from converting the  warden  Prosper  Uwingeli
            great  apes,  which  share  las are actually languid pri-  Noheli,  a  veterinarian  at  rainforest  to  potato  farms  says.
            about 98% of human DNA.  mates that eat only plants  Gorilla  Doctors.  When  his  and cattle pastures. About  "We  don't  want  to  protect
            Last  fall,  the  Switzerland-                                                                                      the  park  with  guns.  We
            based  International  Union                                                                                         want  to  protect  and  con-
            for  Conservation  of  Na-                                                                                          serve this park with people
            ture changed the status of                                                                                          who  understand  why,  and
            mountain gorillas from "criti-                                                                                      who take responsibility," he
            cally  endangered"  to  "en-                                                                                        says. The money from tour-
            dangered," an improved if                                                                                           ism helps, but the region is
            still-fragile designation.                                                                                          still poor.
            It wouldn't have happened                                                                                           Jean  Claude  Masenge-
            without   an   intervention                                                                                         sho  lives  with  his  parents
            some  biologists  call  "ex-                                                                                        and helps them farm pota-
            treme conservation," which                                                                                          toes.  About  once  a  week,
            has  entailed  monitoring                                                                                           the  21-year-old  earns  a
            every  single  gorilla  in  the                                                                                     little  extra  money  help-
            rainforest,  periodically  giv-                                                                                     ing tourists carry their bags
            ing  them  veterinary  care                                                                                         up  the  mountain,  totaling
            and  funding  forest  protec-                                                                                       about  $45  a  month.  He
            tion by sending money into                                                                                          would someday like to be-
            communities  that  might     In this Sept. 7, 2019 photo, children watch a drone flying near the Volcanoes National Park in Ki-  come  a  tour  guide,  which
            otherwise resent not being   nigi, Rwanda.                                                                          could earn him about $320
            able to convert the woods                                                                          Associated Press  monthly.q
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