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A32    FEATURE
                     Thursday 3 May 2018
            Tourists flocking to Peru's newfound 'Rainbow Mountain'




            By FRANKLIN BRICENO                                                                                                 dered.  He  returned  home
            PITUMARCA,  Peru  (AP)  —                                                                                           and  bought  a  horse  that
            Tourists  gasp  for  breath  as                                                                                     last year earned him $5,200
            they climb for two hours to                                                                                         hauling tourists uphill.
            a peak in the Peruvian An-                                                                                          The guides dress in colorful
            des that stands 16,404 feet                                                                                         woolen  clothes  and  wide-
            (5,000  meters)  above  sea                                                                                         brimmed,  traditional  hats
            level.  They're  dead  tired,                                                                                       to lead the horses.
            but  stunned  by  the  magi-                                                                                        Farfan,  the  biologist,  said
            cal beauty unfurled before                                                                                          he  hopes  the  Pampachiri
            them.                                                                                                               can  learn  from  other  sus-
            Stripes  of  turquoise,  lav-                                                                                       tainable tourism endeavors
            ender  and  gold  blanket                                                                                           in Peru.
            what  has  become  known                                                                                            It  was  the  success  of  one
            as  "Rainbow  Mountain,"  a                                                                                         such project, in the nearby
            ridge  of  multicolored  sedi-                                                                                      town  of  Chillca,  that  first
            ments laid down millions of                                                                                         put  Rainbow  Mountain  on
            years  ago  and  pushed  up                                                                                         the map.
            as tectonic plates clashed.                                                                                         For  much  of  the  past  de-
            It's  only  within  the  last  five                                                                                 cade,  a  group  of  shep-
            years that the natural won-                                                                                         herds  had  been  quietly
            der  has  been  discovered   In this March 2, 2018 photo, an Andean man rests with his llama while tourists take in the natural   taking small groups of tour-
            by the outside world, earn-  wonder of Rainbow Mountain in Pitumarca, Peru.                                         ists to the mountain as part
            ing  it  must-see  status  on                                                                      Associated Press  of  a  five-day  hike  around
            Peru's  burgeoning  back-                                                                                           the fast-melting Ausangate
            packer tourist circuit.      however,  fear  the  tourists  As  proof,  he  points  to  a  which has seen no part of  glacier.  Over  time,  and
            "You  see  it  in  the  pictures  could  destroy  the  trea-  2.5-mile  (4-kilometer)  dirt  the windfall.          thanks to the stunning pho-
            and  you  think  it's  Photo-  sured  landscape,  which  is  trail  climbed  by  tourists  to  The  surge  in  tourists  also  tographs posted on the in-
            shopped  —  but  it's  real,"  already  coveted  by  inter-  reach  Rainbow  Mountain  comes with a responsibility  ternet, the secret got out.
            said   Lukas   Lynen,   an  national  mining  compa-      that has been badly erod-    to be good stewards of the  Today  the  shepherds  of
            18-year-old   tourist   from  nies.                       ed  in  the  last  18  months,  environment and their new  Chillca manage four lodg-
            Mexico.                      "From the ecological point  scarring  the  otherwise  pris-  guests,  and  Pampachiri  es  made  of  eucalyptus
            The  popularity  of  Rainbow  of view they are killing the  tine landscape. A wetland  community  leader  Gabino  wood  with  a  capacity  for
                                                                      once  popular  with  migrat-  Huaman  admits  he  is  not  16  tourists  each.  They  are
                                                                      ing  ducks  has  also  been  sure they are ready to fully  lighted only by candle, but
                                                                      turned  into  a  parking  lot  handle it.                 have hot water.
                                                                      the size of five soccer fields  "We  don't  know  one  word  Arriving  guests  are  given
                                                                      that fills each morning with
                                                                      vans  of  mostly  European
                                                                      and American visitors.
                                                                      There  are  more  serious
                                                                      threats, too.
                                                                      Camino  Minerals  Corp.,  a
                                                                      Canadian-based      mining
                                                                      company,  has  applied  for
                                                                      mining rights in the mineral-
                                                                      rich area that includes the
                                                                      mountain.  The  company
                                                                      did  not  respond  to  a  re-
                                                                      quest  by  The  Associated
                                                                      Press  for  comment  on  its
                                                                      plans.
                                                                      Yet  the  flood  of  tourists
                                                                      has  meant  jobs  and  hard   In this March 2, 2018 photo, a tourist poses for a photo at the
                                                                      cash  for  the  local  Pam-  entrance that leads to Rainbow Mountain, in Pitumarca, Peru.
                                                                      pachiri indigenous commu-                                             Associated Press
                                                                      nity,  which  has  struggled
                                                                      with  high  rates  of  alcohol-  in English," he said. "Or first  shoes  made  of  alpaca
                                                                      ism,  malnutrition  and  fall-  aid."                     leather and wool. At dawn,
                                                                      ing  prices  of  wool  for  their  Despite  the  challenges,  lodge-keeper   Orlando
            In  this  April  5,  2018  photo,  community  leader  Gabino  Human
            poses for a photo backdropped by Rainbow Mountain, in Pitu-  prized alpaca. Many have  roughly  500  villagers  have  Garcia  gently  awakens
            marca, Peru.                                              abandoned  nomadic  life  returned in the last couple  his guests with a love song
                                                     Associated Press   for dangerous gold mining  of years to take up their an-  performed in the Quechua
                                                                      jobs in the Amazon.          cestral  trade  of  transport-  language.
                                                                      Now,  they  charge  tour-    ing  goods  across  the  An-  "You  always  have  to  be
            Mountain,  which  attracts  goose that lays the golden  ists  $3  each  to  enter  their  des.  The  difference  is  that  guessing  what  the  client
            up  to  1,000  tourists  each  eggs,"  said  Dina  Farfan,  a  ancestral   land,   netting  now they are hauling tour-  wants,  and  take  care  of
            day, has provided a much-    Peruvian biologist who has  the    community    roughly  ists on horseback.            it  so  you  don't  lose  their
            needed  economic  jolt  to  studied  threatened  wildlife  $400,000 a year — a small  "It's  a  blessing,"  said  Isaac  smile,"  Garcia  says.  "We
            this  remote  region  popu-  in the area just a few hours  fortune that has triggered a  Quispe, 25, who quit his job  want  them  to  feel  the
            lated by struggling alpaca  from the Incan ruins of Ma-   tax battle with an impover-  as a gold miner after six of  greatest comfort at almost
            herders.  Environmentalists,  chu Picchu.                 ished, nearby municipality,  his camp mates were mur-     16,404 feet."q
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