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A2   UP FRONT
                    Saturday 12 May 2018

             2 trips to North Korea with top U.S. diplomat, 18 years apart



                                                                      By MATTHEW LEE               Now,    Washington     was  and little to no sleep.
                                                                      AP Diplomatic Writer         abuzz  with  rumors  that  he  Notwithstanding  the  se-
                                                                      WASHINGTON (AP) — It be-     would  be  heading  back  cret      arrangements    for
                                                                      gan with quiet words from    soon and would bring back  Pompeo’s  return  trip,  we
                                                                      State Department officials:   three U.S. citizens who had  wouldn’t be the first to re-
                                                                      Apply  for  a  new  passport   been held by North Korea  port it.
                                                                      immediately.    You   may    for more than a year for al-  As  our  plane  descended
                                                                      soon be going to a coun-     leged anti-state activities.  Tuesday  into  the  U.S.  air
                                                                      try  for  which  ordinary  U.S.   It would turn out to be my  base in Yokota, Japan, for
                                                                      passports are not valid  for   second visit to the isolated,  its  second  refueling  stop,
                                                                      travel.                      authoritarian  nation.  Eigh-  Trump announced that his
                                                                      Vague  as  it  was,  the  in-  teen  years  ago,  I  had  ac-  top  diplomat  was  on  his
                                                                      struction  to  two  reporters   companied    Madeleine  way to Pyongyang.
                                                                      last  Friday  left  little  doubt   Albright on her historic trip  Circumstances  were  very
                                                                      about our mystery destina-   to  North  Korea,  the  first-  different  when  I’d  visited
                                                                      tion: North Korea.           ever  by  a  sitting  secretary  in  2000  as  a  reporter  for
                                                                      Secretary  of  State  Mike   of state — a highly choreo-  the  French  news  agency
                                                                      Pompeo  had  visited  the    graphed  and  publicized  Agence  France-Presse  to
                                                                      capital,   Pyongyang,    in   two-day affair covered by  cover  Albright’s  highly  an-
                                                                      complete secrecy while he    some 80 journalists.         ticipated  visit.  Dozens  of
                                                                      was  still  CIA  chief  in  early   But  this  was  something  journalists had either flown
             In this Wednesday, May 9, 2018, file photo provided by the North   April  to  set  the  stage  for   completely  different:  an  with the secretary of state
             Korean government, U.S. Secretary of State Mike Pompeo, left,   an unprecedented summit   under-the-radar,   secret  or  taken  charter  flights
             shakes hands with North Korean leader Kim Jong Un during a
             meeting at Workers’ Party of Korea headquarters in Pyongyang,   between President Donald   mission with only two Amer-  from Beijing to Pyongyang
             North Korea.                                             Trump  and  North  Korean    ican reporters as indepen-   to cover the events. There
                                                     Associated Press  leader Kim Jong Un.         dent  witnesses.  The  other  were organized press tours
                                                                                                   reporter was Carol Morello  of the capital and a mass
                                                                                                   of The Washington Post.      stadium  show  hosted  by
                                                                                                   Since  the  death  last  year  the current leader’s father,
                                                                                                   of  Otto  Warmbier,  the  Kim Jong Il.
                                                                                                   American  college  student  This time the visit was much
                                                                                                   who  suffered  brain  dam-   lower-key.  When  we  ar-
                                                                                                   age while in North Korean  rived  at  the  Pyongyang
                                                                                                   custody,   U.S.   nationals  airport  early  Wednesday
                                                                                                   have been prohibited from  morning,     Pompeo     was
                                                                                                   traveling  to  North  Korea  greeted  by  North  Korean
                                                                                                   without  special  passport  dignitaries  and  boarded
                                                                                                   validation.  I  was  soon  in  a Mercedes limousine. We
                                                                                                   possession of new passport  climbed  aboard  a  Chevy
                                                                                                   and  a  letter  informing  me  van.   Pyongyang    had
                                                                                                   that  its  validation  was  “in  changed  a  lot  in  two  de-
                                                                                                   the national interest of the  cades.  There  were  more
                                                                                                   United States.”              tall  buildings  and  more
                                                                                                   We were sworn to secrecy  vehicles  —  though  still  far
                                                                                                   about  the  trip  and  told  to  fewer  than  in  other  world
                                                                                                   pack  a  bag  and  be  on  capitals. Also new were the
                                                                                                   stand-by, but given no de-   stoplights.  After  a  winding
                                                                                                   parture date or time.        drive  past  grandiose  me-
                                                                                                   Rumors  of  the  trip  intensi-  morials  and  revolutionary
                                                                                                   fied  through  the  week-    billboards,  we  arrived  at
                                                                                                   end, but it was only late on  the the Koryo International
                                                                                                   Monday afternoon that we  hotel,  where  many  of  us
                                                                                                   were told we’d leave from  had  stayed  when  Albright
                                                                                                   the  State  Department  at  visited.  Its  lobby  would  be
                                                                                                   7:45 that night.             the base for Carol and me
                                                                                                   We  left  in  a  two-van  mo-  for the next nearly 13 hours
                                                                                                   torcade  from  the  under-   while  Pompeo  met  and
                                                                                                   ground parking garage for  lunched with North Korean
                                                                                                   Joint Base Andrews outside  officials, including Kim.
                                                                                                   Washington.  Once  there,  Mostly  bored,  we  waited
                                                                                                   we  waited  for  Pompeo  to  for news over endless cups
                                                                                                   arrive and soon the U.S. Air  of coffee.
                                                                                                   Force  C-32,  a  converted  Still, the Koryo can offer up
                                                                                                   Boeing  757,  was  airborne.  surprises.
                                                                                                   Destination:   Pyongyang,  Eighteen years ago, it was
                                                                                                   capital  of  the  most  reclu-  the appearance of a Ger-
                                                                                                   sive nation on Earth.        man aid worker who seized
                                                                                                   So  began  a  four-day  jour-  on  the  rare  presence  of
                                                                                                   ney  with  no  confirmed  foreign  correspondents  to
                                                                                                   schedule on the ground in  show  them  squalid  living
                                                                                                   North Korea, no guarantee  conditions outside of town.
                                                                                                   of  the  prisoners’  release  He was later deported.q
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