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A32    FEATURE
                 Friday 23 February 2018
            Oscars fashion through the years: The great and the puzzling




             By LEANNE ITALIE                                                                                                   bellished  chartreuse  Dior
             NEW  YORK  (AP)  —  A  radi-                                                                                       by  John  Galliano,  Ellison
             ant Grace Kelly glided from                                                                                        and others said.
             her seat, pulling up her long                                                                                      "Nicole Kidman completely
             opera gloves, her little eve-                                                                                      transformed  the  red  car-
             ning bag balanced on one                                                                                           pet culture," Ellison said. "It
             arm,  as  she  collected  a                                                                                        was  one  of  the  rare  times
             best actress trophy for "The                                                                                       an actress had worn a de-
             Country  Girl"  at  the  1955                                                                                      signer gown from a French
             Academy Awards.                                                                                                    couture  house,  cementing
             She  kept  her  speech  short                                                                                      the  union  between  high
             and sweet: "The thrill of this                                                                                     fashion and the film aristoc-
             moment  keeps  me  from                                                                                            racy."
             saying  what  I  really  feel.                                                                                     For Williams' look, it was as
             I  can  only  say  thank  you                                                                                      much about style and per-
             with all my heart to all who                                                                                       sonality, she said.
             made  this  possible  for  me.                                                                                     “The dress was totally capti-
             Thank you."                                                                                                        vating with the strong color
             It was a moment that might                                                                                         and  the  red  lip,  all  acces-
             not  have  endured  without                                                                                        sorized  with  her  beaming
             the  cool  mint  satin  gown                                                                                       smile.  It  earns  my  nomina-
             designed  for  her  by  Edith                                                                                      tion for the best Academy
             Head. At the time, Kelly was                                                                                       look of all time,” Ellison said.
             the  screen's  most  memo-                                                                                         King  points  to  precursors
             rable  blonde,  radiating  a                                                                                       who took some risks.
             sophisticated glamour pre-   In this March 2, 2014 file photo, Lupita Nyong'o arrives at the Oscars in Los Angeles. Nyong'o,   Arnold  Scaasi  put  Barbra
                                         wearing a light blue Prada gown, won the Oscar for best supporting actress for her role in "12
             Princess of Monaco. Today,   Years a Slave."                                                                       Streisand  in  a  see-through
             the  thin-strapped  gown                                                                         Associated Press  sparkly trouser look in 1969,
             is  among  the  top  fashion
             moments in the Oscars' 90-  1998  ceremony.  Escada's  Academy  Awards,  when  ous and most glorious gold
             year history.               take  in  sherbet  green  was  best  actress  winner  Janet  outfit to grace the red car-
             It was also an inspiration for  made for Kim Basinger's Os-  Gaynor wore a simple skirt  pet ever," she said.
             designers to come, said Hal  cars turn the year before.  and  sweater  with  a  casu-  Today,  the  Oscars  is  the
             Rubenstein, who wrote the  Kelly  wore  the  gown  two  al  scarf  draped  cross  her  most  important  carpet  of
             book  "100  Unforgettable  other  times,  at  the  film's  shoulders.                 the  awards  season,  but
             Dresses." The gently draped  premiere before the Oscars  "Edith  Head  was  a  cos-   those moments depend as
             sheath  with  a  near-bustle  and  on  the  cover  of  Life  tume  designer  rather  than  much on the human inside
             effect received a riff in soft  magazine after. It offered a  a  couturier.  Worn  with  el-  the outfit.
             pink  by  Ralph  Lauren  for  level of glamour that didn't  bow length gloves and little  Enter Lupita Nyong'o.
             Gwyneth  Paltrow  (albeit  a  exist in 1929 at the very first  other  adornment,  Grace  It was her vibrant red Ralph
             little saggy up top) for the                             Kelly set the bar for a new  Lauren gown with cape at
                                                                      modern  glamour  and  yet  the  2014  Golden  Globes
                                                                      the  color  is  deliciously  un-  that  launched  her  as  a
                                                                      orthodox,"  said  Jo  Ellison,  fashion  It  Girl  in  2014,  but
                                                                      fashion editor at the Finan-  it was her soft blue Cinder-
                                                                      cial Times and author of the  ella  Prada  later  that  year,    In this April 14, 1969 file pho-
                                                                      book "Vogue: The Gown."      with  its  crystal  sparkle  in   to,  actress  and  singer  Barbra
                                                                                                                                Streisand  wears  a  sequined
                                                                      The  1960s  and  '70s  provid-  the pleats, low V neck and   Arnold  Scaasi  bell-bottomed
                                                                      ed  some  fashion  wow,  of  delicate  headband  that     sheer  pantsuit  as  she  poses
                                                                      course, but red carpet fren-  secured her spot, let alone   with  her  Oscar  for  her  role  in
                                                                      zy  reached  stratospheric  on  screen  with  "12  Years   "Funny Girl" at the 41st Acad-
                                                                      heights among designers in  a  Slave"  and,  now,  "Black   emy Awards in Los Angeles.
                                                                      the 1980s, Rubenstein said.  Panther."                                Associated Press
                                                                      "If  it  wasn't  for  Armani,  no-  "She took it to the next lev-
                                                                      body  would  have  cared,"  el," said Joyann King, editor  the year she tied with Kath-
                                                                      he said. "He's the one who  of  HarpersBazaar.com.  "It  arine Hepburn for an Oscar
                                                                      discovered  the  PR  quality  was  stunning  and  it  really  for  “Funny  Girl.”  The  sheer
                                                                      in  dressing  people  for  the  set her apart."           set with a white Peter Pan
                                                                      Oscars.  He's  the  one  who  The  next  year,  Nyong'o  collar,  black  bow  at  the
                                                                      latched on to Anjelica Hus-  wore  a  white  faux  pearl-  neck and wide white cuffs
                                                                      ton  and  Jodie  Foster  and  embellished  dress  by  Cal-  remains  one  of  the  more
                                                                      Michelle Pfeiffer."          vin Klein to the Oscars. Yes,  puzzling  fashion  moments
                                                                      Among  Ellison's  top  Oscar  it's  the  one  that  was  sto-  for a major star in Oscar his-
                                                                      moments: Lauren Hutton in  len soon after but later re-   tory.
                                                                      1980,  in  a  shiny  gold  short  turned by the thieves.  The  pants  included  huge,
                                                                      playsuit by Zoran.           Sometimes,  it's  all  about  swishy   flares   that   be-
                                                                      "Wearing gold to the Acad-   color.  Oscar  fashion  mo-  gan  below  the  knee  and
                                                                      emy  Awards  is  today  such  ments based on that factor  tripped her up a tad on the
             In this March 31, 1955 file photo, Grace Kelly, left, and Marlon   a  cliche.  I  hardly  notice,  include Michelle Williams in  stairs on her way to collect
            Brando, hold their best actress and actor Oscars in Los Angeles.   but this gold lame stops me  her  ruffled  buttercup  yel-  her  statuette,  which  she
            Kelly's icy green satin gown was designed by Edith Head.   in  my  tracks  every  time  —  low Vera Wang in 2006 and  greeted with a resounding:
                                                     Associated Press  the  glossiest,  most  glamor-  Nicole  Kidman's  1997  em-  “Hello, gorgeous.”q
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