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A32    FEATURE
                 Monday 25 noveMber 2019
            Art show seeks the 'real Moscow' in grim suburbs




            By KATE de PURY                                                                                                     abuse  in  Russia.  Accord-
            Associated Press                                                                                                    ing to the advocacy group
            MOSCOW  (AP)  —  As  sleet                                                                                          "You Are Not Alone," an es-
            falls  on  a  cold  November                                                                                        timated  16  million  Russian
            day, communist-era apart-                                                                                           women suffer domestic vio-
            ment  blocks  dominating                                                                                            lence each year.
            Moscow's  suburban  sky-                                                                                            A   residential   complex
            line look bleak and forbid-                                                                                         called Novo-Molokovo, just
            ding. But it's precisely these                                                                                      outside  Moscow  and  still
            sprawling city outskirts that                                                                                       under construction, houses
            are the focus of a major in-                                                                                        the  newest  generation  of
            ternational art exhibition.                                                                                         Muscovites. A studio apart-
            "Beyond the Center" is stag-                                                                                        ment here costs $95,500.
            ing  art  events  across  Mos-                                                                                      Curator  Elena  Ishchenko
            cow's  vast  urban  space                                                                                           set art installations inside an
            starting  this  fall  and  culmi-                                                                                   "odnushka," or studio apart-
            nating in March 2020. With                                                                                          ment.
            the  participation  of  the                                                                                         "We  got  used  to  viewing
            Museum of Vienna and the                                                                                            the suburbs as strange, re-
            Austrian Cultural Forum, the                                                                                        mote areas we don't want
            exhibit  uses  contemporary                                                                                         to visit," she said. "But when
            art  to  explore  the  many   This photo taken on Thursday, Oct. 17, 2019, shows an air view of buildings in Novo-Molokovo   you  get  out  here,  thanks
            hidden  facets  of  life  out-  suburb in Moscow, Russia.                                                           to the artist, you see some-
            side  the  Russian  capital's                                                                      Associated Press  thing you wouldn't expect."
            nucleus.                                                                                                            ZIP  Group  constructed  a
            Simon  Mraz,  Austria's  cul-  modern  Russia  are  reflect-  ing  in  Russia  today,  scroll-  dence  of  Moscow's  rapid  mesh tower to store domes-
            tural attache to Russia and  ed in the capital's complex  ing  through  my  Facebook  post-communist expansion.     tic objects owned by mid-
            director of the Austrian Cul-  socio-economic layers and  feed, I see these symbols all  "Success is the story of how  dle  class  households.  Artist
            tural  Forum  in  Russia,  says  ethnic  mix  from  the  entire  around me," said Rachuiko,  you  came  to  Moscow,  Stefan  Shubutin  imagines
            the  "real"  Moscow,  where  former Soviet Union.         whose exhibit is at the Go-  found  work,  got  a  mort-  breaking  down  the  walls
            most  of  the  city's  12.6  mil-  Hailing  from  southern  Rus-  gol  Center  in  central  Mos-  gage  and  became  a  real  that isolate people living in
            lion  people  live,  is  outside  sia,   self-taught   painter  cow.                   person,"  says  sociologist  tiny,  high-rise  apartments,
            the center.                  Pasmur Rachuiko offers an  The  paintings  sparked  dis-  Natalia  Zubarevich.  "It's  a  their goods stored on over-
            "They all come to Moscow  extreme  outsider's  view  of  approval  from  Moscow's  tough city, totally intolerant  flowing balconies.
            with  some  dreams,  facing  Moscow reality.              culture  department,  but  and very selfish."             "The  flats  are  closed,  peo-
            struggles, hoping for a bet-  Burka-clad  figures,  police-  Rachuiko  found  support  In  "Polly  wants  a  cracker,"  ple  don't  often  meet  their
            ter future. They won't find it  men and wolves pose in the  from the arts establishment,  Austrian  artist  Michele  Pa-  neighbors,"  Shubutin  said.
            in Red Square and definite-  suburbs,  gangsters  have  including  theater  director  gel  sees  a  darker  side  of  "But here you can see your
            ly not in the Kremlin," Mraz,  angels'  wings  and  young  Kirill  Serebrennikov,  himself  Moscow – domestic abuse.  neighbor's  stuff  and  ask  to
            curator  of  the  exhibition,  women carrying AK-47 rifles  still  under  threat  from  the  Her  visceral  sculptures,  on  borrow a sled, skis, even a
            told The Associated Press.   stare  out  of  his  canvases.  authorities after a long term  show  in  Mraz's  apartment,  washing machine."
            Despite  a  steep  decline  in  Rachuiko  depicts  himself  of house arrest.           located opposite the Krem-   Zubarevich, the sociologist,
            Russia's  population,  Mos-  as  "everyman"  among  this  The urban renewal project  lin,  seek  to  bring  violence  hopes a grassroots civil so-
            cow is growing — fueled by  cast of new Russian arche-    aimed at impressing World  against women back from  ciety will grow in Moscow's
            a steady influx of people in  types.                      Cup  visitors  to  Moscow  in  the peripheral vision of Rus-  residential  districts,  but  it's
            search of jobs and a better  "These characters are from  2018 didn't reach Liublino, a  sian  society  to  its  central  a  social  trend  the  Kremlin
            life.  The  challenges  facing  my  personal world, but liv-  working-class suburb. In this  focus.                 watches carefully and any
                                                                      dilapidated industrial zone,  Attending  the  opening,  political  activism  brings  re-
                                                                      the  "Museum  of  Industrial  lawyer   Alyona   Popova  pression.
                                                                      Culture"  houses  a  private  campaigns  to  reverse  a  "This city shows what Russia
                                                                      collection of discarded ob-  2017  law  decriminalizing  could be," she said. "It's our
                                                                      jects,  amassed  by  former  certain  types  of  domestic  hope of modernization."q
                                                                      auto  engineer  Lev  Zhe-
                                                                      leznyov. It's a social history
                                                                      of  more  than  70  years  of
                                                                      communism,  told  though
                                                                      ordinary things people rec-
                                                                      ognize from a shared past.
                                                                      "It's a museum of memory.
                                                                      We are not so interested in
                                                                      how  a  lamp  works,  more
                                                                      that  it  was  in  someone's
                                                                      home," Zheleznyov said.
                                                                      The Soviet legacy is palpa-
                                                                      ble here, Mraz said.
                                                                      "It's  where  the  broken  em-
                                                                      pire has become the reality
                                                                      of life," he said.
            In this photo taken on Sunday, Nov. 3, 2019, mannequins in So-  Russia's  young,  urban  mid-  In  this  photo  taken  on  Sunday,  Nov.  3,  2019,  Soviet-era  soda
            viet style uniforms displayed in the 'Museum of Industrial Culture'   dle  class  lives  further  out,   vending machines are on display in the 'Museum of Industrial
            in a dilapidated industrial zone of Moscow, Russia.                                    Culture' in a dilapidated industrial zone of Moscow, Russia.
                                                     Associated Press  where  high-rise  blocks  jos-                                       Associated Press
                                                                      tle with vast highways, evi-
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