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                                                                                     PEOPLE & ARTS Tuesday 4 February 2020
            Gift or keep: The afterlives of red carpet looks is a dance



            By LEANNE ITALIE             events  is  fully  prepared  to
            Associated Press             give the dress back at the
            NEW YORK (AP) — Remem-       end of the day.”
            ber the ethereal pale blue  Coming  at  the  end  of  the
            Prada dress Lupita Nyong’o  awards  season,  the  Os-
            wore the night she won an  cars  are  a  mad  scramble
            Oscar in 2014? How about  for  fresh  looks  after  an  ex-
            Glenn  Close’s  moment  in  hausting  cycle  of  red  car-
            gold  at  last  year’s  Oscars  pets, parties and other ap-
            in shimmering Carolina Her-  pearances. There are few-
            rera  with  the  long,  liquid  er nominees to dress, along
            cape?                        with presenters.
            In  a  sea  of  red  carpets,  Stylist  Micaela  Erlanger,
            both  are  among  top  tal-  who    has   worked    with
            ent  who  got  to  keep  their  Nyong’o, Meryl Streep and
            fancy duds.                  others, said the Oscars are
            How a red carpet moment  a mix of custom, couture or
            comes together, and what  never-worn  runway  looks,
            happens to the clothes af-   the  latter  sometimes  with
            ter, can be a peculiar affair  modifications to the silhou-
            that  heavily  depends  on  ette or color. Generally, Er-
            who you are and what your  langer strives for custom.
            relationship happens to be  “It’s the end of the season
            with  the  designer  in  ques-  so  you  kind  of  have  to  re-
            tion.  A  designer’s  decision  sort  to  custom.  So  much
            to  gift  or  not  to  gift  often  has  already  been  through   This March 2, 2014 file photo shows Lupita Nyong'o in a pale blue Prada dress at the Oscars in Los
            comes after the big night is  the  circuit.  By  the  Oscars,   Angeles.
            over and it’s time for stylists  I’ve  probably  seen  every                                                                    Associated Press
            to  pack  ’em  up  and  ship  dress out there,” she said.
            ’em back.                    When  it  comes  to  gifting,   signers  are  more  generous
            “They’re  delighted  if  the  every brand is different, Er-  than others.
            designer  says,  ‘Oh,  please  langer said.               Jennifer  Lopez  kept  her
            keep it. I made that just for  “Some  brands  want  to    original   Versace   jungle
            her.  She  should  have  it,’”  keep them for their own ar-  dress  of  green  silk  chiffon
            said  stylist  Emily  Sanchez,  chives.  The  brand  decides   that was the talk of the 2000
            who  has  dressed  Laura  that and the client is happy    Grammys.  Prior  to  Lopez
            Linney  and  Sutton  Foster,  either  way,”  she  said.  “I’d   making  the  dress  with  the
            among  others.  “If  a  de-  say  it’s  50-50.  If  someone   plunging  neckline  among
            signer  feels  they’re  going  wins  in  a  dress,  generally   the most famous of all time,
            to  want  something  back  speaking  the  brands  are     it was a runway piece that
            immediately, they’re pretty  more  inclined  to  give  that   had  been  featured  in  a
            transparent about it.”       as  a  gift  because  it’s  very   Versace ad campaign and
            Many  gowns  live  out  their  sentimental.”              was  worn  by  Geri  Halliwell
            days  in  a  designer’s  ar-  For  the  Oscars  this  year,   and Donatella, the latter to   This combination photo shows Oprah Winfrey walking on stage
            chives, to be lent out to mu-  she’s  dressing  Sigourney   the 1999 Met Gala.         to present the award for best documentary feature during the
            seums  or  for  other  special  Weaver  for  the  show  and   Versace  made  duplicates   83rd Academy Awards in Los Angeles on Feb. 27, 2011, left, and
            events,  such  as  the  Chris-  Diane Kruger for the Vanity   for museum display, includ-  Winfrey arriving at the Oscars in Los Angeles on Feb. 22, 2015.
            tian  Siriano  tuxedo  gown  Fair after-party.            ing  the  Grammy  Museum,                                             Associated Press
            Billy  Porter  wore  at  last  Stylist  Chloe  Hartstein  will   and Lopez wore a reimag-
            year’s Oscars and recently  be dressing presenter Chris   ined version for the Versace  the  Screen  Actors  Guild  ish  Academy  Film  Awards,
            put  on  again  for  “Sesame  Rock  for  the  Oscars.  She   show  at  last  September’s  awards wasn’t custom and  said  her  red  carpet  strat-
            Street.” Far rarer is a celeb-  worked with two nominees,   Milan Fashion Week.        went  back  after  she  pre-  egy  is  with  sustainability  in
            rity buying them instead.    Close  and  Melissa  McCar-  Close  enjoyed  a  slew  of  sented there.                mind.
            “For Oprah, we have dress-   thy, last year.              custom  pieces  last  year  “She  has  a  beautiful  rela-  “I borrow them,” Dever said
            es  custom  made  and  pay  Keeping  the  clothes  isn’t   with  her  nominations  for  tionship  with  Mr.  Armani.  on Sunday’s BAFTA red car-
            for  them,  so  she  keeps  automatic  for  nominees,     “The Wife.” She was gifted  She’s  been  wearing  the  pet. “I’m trying to be more
            hers,”  said  Adam  Glass-   including  those  who  win,   a  black  velvet  cape  look  brand  forever,”  Hartstein  green  in  every  aspect  of
            man,  creative  director  of  Hartstein said.             by  Armani  Prive  from  the  said.  “With  Glenn  last  sea-  my life. ... I’m really trying in
            O, The Oprah magazine.       “It’s  a  Cinderella  moment   Golden  Globes  after  she  son, it’s a discussion we had  all areas. I think if you just try
            These  days,  Sanchez  said,  where you wear it and then   won  for  best  actress  in  a  throughout the process.”  a little bit at least, that does
            most nominees are offered  the next morning I’m there     drama. She was also gifted  Close has a keen interest in  something.”
            bespoke.                     bright  and  early  to  grab  it   the white crystal Ralph Lau-  fashion, amassing personal  Saoirse Ronan, who’s nomi-
            “That’s  sort  of  like  the  big  and pack it up and send it   ren suit she wore when she  looks  but  also  costumes  nated  for  best  actress  at
            honor. Typically you get to  to Paris or wherever it needs   won a Screen Actors Guild  from  her  films  and  other  the upcoming Oscars, said
            work  with  the  designer  di-  to  be.  But  there  are  mo-  award for the same film.  projects  throughout  her  her  black  Gucci  gown  at
            rectly. It’s such a huge press  ments  where  you’re  lucky   This  year  at  the  Golden  nearly  40-year  career.  She  the BAFTAs included repur-
            opportunity  so  designers  enough to keep them,” she     Globes,  Close  was  a  pre-  donated  her  costume  col-  posed fabric. Does she get
            are  pretty  excited  to  do  said.                       senter  and  wore  a  royal  lection to Indiana University  to keep it?
            that,” she said. “If you won,  With  many  thousands  of   blue  custom  gown  by  Ar-  in 2017.                    “No, they usually go back,”
            you  probably  want  the  dollars of work and materi-     mani  Prive.  It,  too,  was  Actress  Kaitlyn  Dever,  who  said  Ronan  and  several
            dress,  but  I  think  everyone  als at stake, along with long   gifted.  The  Oscar  de  la  wore  a  soft  pink  strapless  others at the British awards
            who  goes  to  one  of  these  hours  of  labor,  some  de-  Renta  caftan  she  wore  to  Miu  Miu  gown  to  the  Brit-  show.q
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