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BUSINESS                 Monday 30 deceMber 2019
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            Sustainability in the fashion industry faces an uphill climb




            By LIZZIE KNIGHT                                                                                                    Europe,  throwing  away
            Associated Press                                                                                                    1  million  tonnes  annually
            LONDON  (AP)  —  Sustain-                                                                                           with  300,000  tonnes  (over
            ability  in  fashion  is  a  hot                                                                                    661,000,000  pounds)  going
            button  topic,  with  retail-                                                                                       to  incinerators  or  landfills.
            ers  large  and  small  racing                                                                                      The EAC, chaired by Mem-
            to  prove  their  green  cre-                                                                                       ber  of  Parliament  Mary
            dentials,  but  the  desire  for                                                                                    Creagh,  concluded  that
            new  attire  churns  and  the                                                                                       fashion retailers should take
            industry  remains  one  of                                                                                          responsibility for the clothes
            the  world's  largest  pollut-                                                                                      they  sell.  The  Committee
            ers as climate activists and                                                                                        called  for  a  producer  re-
            watchdogs sound alarms.                                                                                             sponsibility scheme for tex-
            The  industry  is  the  second                                                                                      tiles,  which  would  add  a
            largest  consumer  of  water                                                                                        small amount to the cost of
            and is responsible for 8-10%                                                                                        each  item,  raising  money
            of global carbon emissions,                                                                                         to  invest  in  recycling  cen-
            more than all international                                                                                         ters to divert clothing from
            flights  and  maritime  ship-                                                                                       landfills  and  incineration.
            ping combined, according                                                                                            The   British   government,
            to the United Nations Envi-                                                                                         then  led  by  Prime  Minister
            ronment Program.                                                                                                    Theresa  May,  rejected  all
            "So,  for  example,  it  would   This April 10, 2012 file photo shows the production department at fashion giant Inditex's headquar-  the  committee's  propos-
            take  13  years  to  drink  the   ters where Zara fashion garments are designed in La Coruna, Spain.                als,  much  to  the  dismay
            water that is used to make                                                                         Associated Press  of  Fashion  Revolution,  a
            one pair of jeans and one                                                                                           global  movement  calling
            T-shirt," said Fee Gilfeather,  vative solutions, both large  ion  sector  addressed  cli-  emissions, with multiple op-  for  greater  transparency,
            a  sustainability  expert  at  and small.                 mate  change  by  launch-    portunities to reduce emis-  sustainability  and  ethics  in
            the  nonprofit  OXFAM.  "It's  At the high end of the mar-  ing  the  Fashion  Industry  sions.  It  hopes  to  achieve  the fashion industry.
            just  an  incredible  amount  ket,  designers  are  keen  to  Charter  for  Climate  Ac-  net  zero  emissions  by  2050  "That  set  us  back  20  years
            of environmental resources  make  sustainable  fashion  tion  at  the  COP24  climate  and  notes  a  number  of  is-  at the very, very least. It is
            that  are  required  for  mak-  synonymous  with  luxury.  In  conference in Katowice in  sues:  decarbonization  of  inexcusable  and  frankly,
            ing  the  clothing  that  we  2015, a sustainability report  December  2018.  Leading  the  production  phase;  se-  unforgivable,"  said  the  or-
            wear."                       by  Nielsen  found  that  66%  fashion  brands,  retailers,  lection  of  climate  friendly  ganization's creative direc-
            Harmful  chemicals,  global  of consumers are willing to  supplier  organizations,  a  and  sustainable  materials;  tor and co-founder, Orsola
            transport  of  goods  and  pay  more  for  environmen-    major  shipping  company  the  need  for  low-carbon  De Castro. "Some of those
            non-biodegradable  pack-     tally  friendly  clothing.  At  and  global  NGO  WWF  In-  transport;  and  improving  recommendations,    you'd
            aging  add  to  the  environ-  the low, fast fashion end of  ternational  have  agreed  consumer  dialogue  and  think  why  would  you  not
            mental cost. The combined  the industry, promises have  to  collectively  address  the  awareness.                  take  that  into  consider-
            impact has put the industry  been made.                   climate  impact  of  the  in-  The  scale  of  the  charter  ation? And the reality is that
            under scrutiny among con-    Inditex, the retail giant that  dustry across sectors. Patri-  is  vast,  but  activists  are  the U.K. government in this
            sumers  who  want  to  know  owns Zara, H&M and many  cia Espinosa, the executive  up  against  behemoths  at  occasion  has  also  looked
            where — and how — their  other  brands,  announced  secretary  for  UN  Climate  times.                             very out of touch because
            clothes   are   produced.  a  sustainability  pledge  in  Change,  said  the  charter  In Britain, the Environmental  we are seeing quite a lot of
            They're demanding ethical  July,  saying  it  wants  all  its  comes at a time when "we  Audit  Committee  reported  policy change happening,
            practices  and  responsible  clothes  to  be  made  from  needed it most." The char-   on  the  problem  earlier  this  for instance, in France. And
            retailing.                   sustainable  or  recycled  ter  recognizes  the  crucial  year  and  found  that  the  it seems that them not get-
            Some  manufacturers  and  fabrics by 2025.                role  of  fashion  as  a  con-  U.K.  buys  more  clothes  ting up to speed on this is a
            retailers  have  found  inno-  In addition, the global fash-  tributor to greenhouse gas  than  any  other  country  in  terrible thing."q

            Businesses facing new overtime rules in new year


            By JOYCE M. ROSENBERG        fected by the increase are
            Associated Press             shift supervisors or assistant
            NEW YORK (AP) — The new  managers  at  restaurants,
            year  brings  new  overtime  retailers  and  manufactur-
            rules  for  employers  includ-  ing companies. Workers at
            ing small businesses and in  companies  of  all  sizes  will
            turn, a pay raise for an es-  be  affected,  but  the  rules
            timated 1.3 million workers.  are likely to have a greater
            The    Labor   Department  impact  on  small  compa-
            rules  that  go  into  effect  nies  that  don’t  have  the
            Jan.  1  raise  to  $684  per  revenue stream that larger
            week,  or  $35,568  a  year,  businesses  do  to  use  as  a
            the threshold at which em-   cushion against the higher
            ployees  are  exempt  from  labor costs.                  In this April 9, 2018, file photo a cashier rings up a purchase at a
                                                                      store in Salem, N.H.
            being paid overtime. That’s  The Obama administration                                              Associated Press
            a  50.3%  increase  from  the  proposed  a  much  larger
            previous  threshold  of  $455  increase  in  the  exemption  estimated  4.2  million  peo-  federal  lawsuit.  The  Trump
            per week or $23,660 annu-    threshold,  nearly  doubling  ple,  but  the  regulations  administration  revised  the
            ally.                        it to $47,476. That proposal  scheduled to take effect in  proposed  rules,  issuing  its
            The jobs most likely to be af-  would  have  affected  an  2016 were put on hold by a  first version last March. q
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